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Crested Gecko — care sheet
Correlophus ciliatus · Beginner
| Adult size | 4.5–5.5 in body (~7–8 in with tail; many adults are tailless) |
|---|---|
| Lifespan | 15–20 years |
| Enclosure | Adult minimum 18×18×24 in, oriented vertically (they're arboreal) and densely planted with climbing cover. Babies do better in a smaller enclosure at first so they can find food. |
| Basking / warm zone | No hot basking zone needed. A gentle warm area up to ~82–85°F (28–29°C) at most — and no higher. Sustained temperatures above the mid-80s°F cause heat stress and can be fatal. |
| Cool side | Ideal ambient is ordinary room temperature, ~72–78°F (22–26°C). |
| Night | Night 65–72°F (18–22°C) — a natural cool-down they appreciate. |
| UVB & lighting | Low UVB is recommended (Ferguson Zone 1): UVI 1.0–2.0 at the basking branch (e.g. a low-percentage T5 ShadeDweller bulb). They can also get D3 from a complete diet, but UVB is a healthy bonus. |
| Humidity | 60–80%, allowed to dry back to ~40–50% between mistings — constant sogginess breeds mould and respiratory illness. Mist in the evening (and again in the morning if needed). |
| Substrate | Simple paper towel (great for beginners) or a bioactive tropical mix (topsoil/coconut fibre). Note loose particulate can pose an impaction risk to very small geckos (under ~13 g). |
| Diet | The easy part: a complete commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) powder — e.g. Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water, offered every 2–3 days. Insects 1–2×/week are an optional enrichment, not a requirement. No live food is needed at all. |
| Supplements | Generally none — a complete CGD is balanced. If you feed extra insects, dust them with calcium. |
Before you buy
- An 18×18×24 in vertical, planted enclosure.
- A way to keep them under ~82°F in summer (this is the real risk, not cold).
- Commercial CGD powder and a mister.
- A 15–20 year commitment.
See a reptile vet if…
- A wavy, rubbery jaw or a permanently kinked "floppy tail" (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease / calcium deficiency).
- Gaping, lethargy, or collapse in heat — treat overheating as an emergency: cool it down and call a vet.
- Not eating with visible weight loss over weeks.
- Stuck shed on the toes (can cost toes) or eyes.
- A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (possible impaction).
Never
- Never let the enclosure exceed the mid-80s°F — heat kills cresties faster than cold.
- Never rely on fruit or baby food as the diet.
- Never keep it constantly soaking wet (mould and respiratory infection).
- Never house two males together.
- Never assume a dropped tail needs treatment — keep the area clean and it heals.
Common crested gecko questions
How hard are Crested Geckos to keep — are they good for beginners?
Beginner. Arguably the single easiest reptile to start with — room temperature, a complete powdered diet, no live food required. The one real danger is heat: they overheat easily.
What do Crested Geckos eat?
The easy part: a complete commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) powder — e.g. Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water, offered every 2–3 days. Insects 1–2×/week are an optional enrichment, not a requirement. No live food is needed at all.
How big an enclosure do Crested Geckos need?
Adult minimum 18×18×24 in, oriented vertically (they're arboreal) and densely planted with climbing cover. Babies do better in a smaller enclosure at first so they can find food.
What basking temperature do Crested Geckos need?
No hot basking zone needed. A gentle warm area up to ~82–85°F (28–29°C) at most — and no higher. Sustained temperatures above the mid-80s°F cause heat stress and can be fatal.
What should the cool side be for Crested Geckos?
Ideal ambient is ordinary room temperature, ~72–78°F (22–26°C).
What night-time temperature do Crested Geckos need?
Night 65–72°F (18–22°C) — a natural cool-down they appreciate.
What UVB and lighting do Crested Geckos need?
Low UVB is recommended (Ferguson Zone 1): UVI 1.0–2.0 at the basking branch (e.g. a low-percentage T5 ShadeDweller bulb). They can also get D3 from a complete diet, but UVB is a healthy bonus.
What humidity do Crested Geckos need?
60–80%, allowed to dry back to ~40–50% between mistings — constant sogginess breeds mould and respiratory illness. Mist in the evening (and again in the morning if needed).
What substrate do Crested Geckos need?
Simple paper towel (great for beginners) or a bioactive tropical mix (topsoil/coconut fibre). Note loose particulate can pose an impaction risk to very small geckos (under ~13 g).
What supplements do Crested Geckos need?
Generally none — a complete CGD is balanced. If you feed extra insects, dust them with calcium.
How big do Crested Geckos get?
4.5–5.5 in body (~7–8 in with tail; many adults are tailless)
How long do Crested Geckos live?
15–20 years
What are the signs Crested Geckos are sick or need a vet?
See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: A wavy, rubbery jaw or a permanently kinked "floppy tail" (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease / calcium deficiency).; Gaping, lethargy, or collapse in heat — treat overheating as an emergency: cool it down and call a vet.; Not eating with visible weight loss over weeks.; Stuck shed on the toes (can cost toes) or eyes.; A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (possible impaction)..
Sources: ReptiFiles — Crested Gecko Care · Association of Reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) · Merck Veterinary Manual — reptiles. Written and fact-checked by The Baskden Team — kind, general guidance, not a diagnosisand not a substitute for an exotics vet. baskden.com