Jackson's Chameleon — care sheet

Intermediate. The "tiny triceratops" — but its MONTANE needs trip up many keepers. Unlike the veiled or panther it wants COOL temperatures, a real cool night, and a day-to-night humidity SWING (not constant damp). Much of the market is wild-caught, too. A rewarding display chameleon for a careful keeper, not a first reptile.

Insectivore — a varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, black soldier fly larvae, silkworms, flying insects): juveniles daily, adults about 6–8 medium/large insects every other day. Avoid fireflies, wild-caught insects, and adult roaches (high uric acid → gout). Variety matters — a single-food staple is outdated.

A tall, front-opening mesh cage — 24×24×48 in works well for an adult, larger preferred. Mesh is ideal because it lets the enclosure DRY OUT between mistings; in a very dry home a partly solid (glass/PVC) cage holds humidity better. House ONE per cage — they’re solitary and stressed by a rival in view.

A LOW basking spot of about 80–83°F (27–28°C) — Jackson’s are montane and must NOT overheat. A small heat bulb is plenty; the cooler-running subspecies want a basking spot nearer 79°F.

Shade/general temperature 68–72°F (20–23°C), with a vertical gradient so it thermoregulates by climbing.

A genuine cool night drop to 50–59°F (10–15°C) is important — this is a mountain species, and the cool night matters to its health.

UVB is essential (diurnal): a T5 HO bulb (Arcadia Forest 6% or ShadeDweller 7%) giving UVI 3.0–4.0 at basking height (Ferguson Zone 3), plus bright 6500K daylight lamps for wellbeing. 12-hour photoperiod; replace the UVB bulb yearly.

NOT constant high humidity — that myth kills Jackson’s chameleons. In the wild humidity is up to ~100% at night but falls to around 30% during the day, so the enclosure must DRY OUT by day. Mist heavily morning and afternoon (or run an automatic misting system) and let it dry between; they drink the droplets, not from a bowl. A fogger can add cool night humidity.

Because so much water passes through daily, most keepers run a bare floor with a drainage system rather than loose substrate (which saturates and poses an impaction risk). Live potted plants add cover and humidity.

Dust lightly and on a schedule — Jackson’s are evolved for a poor-nutrition habitat, so they’re EASY to over-supplement. Plain calcium at most feedings, a little calcium + D3 occasionally (alongside UVB), and a sparing multivitamin. Too much D3 or vitamin A causes its own problems.

Around 9–13 in (23–33 cm) depending on subspecies; males are larger and wear three horns

Longer-lived than most chameleons: males up to ~9 years, females ~5–6

See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Sunken eyes, eyes closed during the day, or dry/orange stringy urate (dehydration — the No. 1 chameleon problem).; Gaping, pale, and lethargic when warm, with no cool retreat (heat stress — a real danger for a montane species).; A rubbery jaw, bowed limbs, or a curled/kinked tail (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease).; A gravid female who goes off food, then becomes weak or straining (birthing complications — Jackson's bear live young).; Gaping with mucus or whistling (respiratory infection), or swollen, gritty joints (gout, often from over-supplementation or adult roaches)..