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Ackie Monitor — care sheet
Varanus acanthurus · Intermediate
| Adult size | ~2 ft (17–30 in / 44–76 cm); males a little larger |
|---|---|
| Lifespan | 15+ years (20 is possible) with good care |
| Enclosure | Minimum 5×2.5×4 ft (about 12.5 sq ft of floor) for one — larger is always better, and the deep substrate below is non-negotiable. House ONE: males fight (sometimes fatally) and females often clash too. |
| Basking / warm zone | A very hot basking SURFACE of 158–172°F (70–78°C) — the monitor hallmark, made with a tight cluster of halogen floods and measured with a temp gun at the basking rock. Warm ambient air 84–100°F (29–38°C). |
| Cool side | Cool side 75–82°F (24–28°C). A real cool retreat is vital — an ackie that can’t escape the heat can die of heat stroke even with a correct basking temperature. |
| Night | Night at room temperature (a drop is fine); no coloured night bulbs. |
| UVB & lighting | Strong UVB for a diurnal high-basker: a T5 HO bulb (Arcadia Desert 12%) giving UVI ~3.0–4.0 at basking height (Ferguson Zone 3–4), plus a bright 6500K daylight LED. Replace the UVB bulb yearly. |
| Humidity | Dry AIR (ambient 20–50%) but a humid BURROW: the deep substrate is kept moist near the bottom so it holds 80%+ humidity down where the ackie digs. This dry-air / humid-burrow split is the key to ackie hydration. |
| Substrate | DEEP and burrowable — at least 12″ for males and 18″ for females — of a soil/sand mix that packs and holds a tunnel, kept moist at the bottom. Burrowing is essential for hydration, thermoregulation, and security. |
| Diet | Carnivore, primarily insectivorous: a large volume of varied gut-loaded insects (dubia, crickets, roaches), plus occasional whole prey (a pinky/fuzzy, egg) and lean meats. They’re voracious and food-motivated, so obesity from overfeeding is common — feed to body condition, not to appetite. |
| Supplements | Dust insects with calcium; add a multivitamin on a rotation. |
Before you buy
- A large enclosure that can hold BOTH a 158–172°F basking spot and a proper cool retreat.
- A foot-plus of moist burrowing substrate — this is not optional for an ackie.
- A big, ongoing feeder-insect supply, and time to engage a smart animal daily.
- Honesty that this is an advanced, not beginner, lizard — plus an exotics/reptile vet.
See a reptile vet if…
- Gaping and lethargy in the heat with no cool escape (heat stroke — an emergency; cool it and call a vet).
- Weak or bent limbs, tremors, or a rubbery jaw (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease).
- Obvious obesity — a bloated body, spread scales, no waist (very common on overfeeding).
- Open-mouth breathing, wheezing, or mucus (possible respiratory infection).
- A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (possible impaction), or any tissue protruding from the vent (prolapse).
Never
- Never run it without a genuine cool zone — heat stroke kills even at a correct basking temperature.
- Never keep it on shallow substrate — no burrow means dehydration and stress.
- Never house two ackies together.
- Never base the diet on rodents — obesity follows; feed mostly insects, to body condition.
- Never treat it as a decoration — it needs heat, space, and daily engagement.
Common ackie monitor questions
How hard are Ackie Monitors to keep — are they good for beginners?
Intermediate. The most beginner-accessible monitor — but still a serious, high-input, intensely intelligent carnivore. Expect extreme basking heat, a big deep-substrate enclosure, a heavy feeder-insect supply, and daily engagement.
What do Ackie Monitors eat?
Carnivore, primarily insectivorous: a large volume of varied gut-loaded insects (dubia, crickets, roaches), plus occasional whole prey (a pinky/fuzzy, egg) and lean meats. They’re voracious and food-motivated, so obesity from overfeeding is common — feed to body condition, not to appetite.
How big an enclosure do Ackie Monitors need?
Minimum 5×2.5×4 ft (about 12.5 sq ft of floor) for one — larger is always better, and the deep substrate below is non-negotiable. House ONE: males fight (sometimes fatally) and females often clash too.
What basking temperature do Ackie Monitors need?
A very hot basking SURFACE of 158–172°F (70–78°C) — the monitor hallmark, made with a tight cluster of halogen floods and measured with a temp gun at the basking rock. Warm ambient air 84–100°F (29–38°C).
What should the cool side be for Ackie Monitors?
Cool side 75–82°F (24–28°C). A real cool retreat is vital — an ackie that can’t escape the heat can die of heat stroke even with a correct basking temperature.
What night-time temperature do Ackie Monitors need?
Night at room temperature (a drop is fine); no coloured night bulbs.
What UVB and lighting do Ackie Monitors need?
Strong UVB for a diurnal high-basker: a T5 HO bulb (Arcadia Desert 12%) giving UVI ~3.0–4.0 at basking height (Ferguson Zone 3–4), plus a bright 6500K daylight LED. Replace the UVB bulb yearly.
What humidity do Ackie Monitors need?
Dry AIR (ambient 20–50%) but a humid BURROW: the deep substrate is kept moist near the bottom so it holds 80%+ humidity down where the ackie digs. This dry-air / humid-burrow split is the key to ackie hydration.
What substrate do Ackie Monitors need?
DEEP and burrowable — at least 12″ for males and 18″ for females — of a soil/sand mix that packs and holds a tunnel, kept moist at the bottom. Burrowing is essential for hydration, thermoregulation, and security.
What supplements do Ackie Monitors need?
Dust insects with calcium; add a multivitamin on a rotation.
How big do Ackie Monitors get?
~2 ft (17–30 in / 44–76 cm); males a little larger
How long do Ackie Monitors live?
15+ years (20 is possible) with good care
What are the signs Ackie Monitors are sick or need a vet?
See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Gaping and lethargy in the heat with no cool escape (heat stroke — an emergency; cool it and call a vet).; Weak or bent limbs, tremors, or a rubbery jaw (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease).; Obvious obesity — a bloated body, spread scales, no waist (very common on overfeeding).; Open-mouth breathing, wheezing, or mucus (possible respiratory infection).; A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (possible impaction), or any tissue protruding from the vent (prolapse)..
Sources: ReptiFiles — Ackie Monitor Care Guide · Baines et al. (2016), “How much UVB does my reptile need? The UV-Tool” · Association of Reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) · Merck Veterinary Manual — reptiles. Written and fact-checked by The Baskden Team — kind, general guidance, not a diagnosisand not a substitute for an exotics vet. baskden.com