Question 1

How hard are African Fat-Tailed Geckos to keep — are they good for beginners?

Accepted Answer

Beginner. Just as beginner-friendly as a leopard gecko — small, hardy, and handleable. The one real difference is humidity: a fat-tail wants more of it (a wet/dry seasonal cycle and a proper humid hide).

Question 2

What do African Fat-Tailed Geckos eat?

Accepted Answer

Strict insectivore — no fruit, veg, or meat. A varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, dubia roaches, etc.): juveniles daily; adults every other day, or every few days for one whose tail is nicely plump. Feeders no larger than the space between the eyes; don’t leave loose insects in overnight.

Question 3

How big an enclosure do African Fat-Tailed Geckos need?

Accepted Answer

Adult minimum 36×18×18 in (a 3×1.5 ft floor); bigger is better. They’re terrestrial, so floor space beats height. Provide three hides — a warm hide, a cool hide, and a humid hide.

Question 4

What basking temperature do African Fat-Tailed Geckos need?

Accepted Answer

A warm basking surface of 90–94°F (32–34°C) in the warm season, from overhead heat (with a warm hide under it) so the gut gets the heat it needs to digest — not a dangerous belly heat-rock.

Question 5

What should the cool side be for African Fat-Tailed Geckos?

Accepted Answer

Cool side 72–77°F (22–25°C).

Question 6

What night-time temperature do African Fat-Tailed Geckos need?

Accepted Answer

Night can fall to ~72–77°F in the warm season. Keepers who run an optional cooler “dry season” drop the basking area to ~79°F and nights to ~63–64°F — but keep any gecko under 6 months in warm-season conditions.

Question 7

What UVB and lighting do African Fat-Tailed Geckos need?

Accepted Answer

Low-level UVB is recommended (they’re nocturnal — Ferguson Zone 1): UVI ~1.0–2.0 at the basking spot. They can survive on a high-D3 calcium supplement without UVB, but they do best with it.

Question 8

What humidity do African Fat-Tailed Geckos need?

Accepted Answer

Higher than a leopard gecko, and ideally cycled: a rainy/warm season around 70–80% by day, and a drier season around 50% by day. Whatever the season, give a humid hide (moist substrate, kept ~70%+) on the cool end at all times so they shed cleanly — retained shed on the toes and tail tip is the classic fat-tail problem.

Question 9

What substrate do African Fat-Tailed Geckos need?

Accepted Answer

A naturalistic, well-drained semi-arid mix packed ≥4″ deep for burrowing — e.g. ~40% topsoil / 40% play sand / 20% excavator clay. Use paper towel for quarantine and for geckos under ~6 months. Avoid dusty calci-sand.

Question 10

What supplements do African Fat-Tailed Geckos need?

Accepted Answer

Dust insects with calcium at nearly every feeding (with D3 if UVB is minimal) and a multivitamin on a rotation. A plump tail = healthy fat stores; a thin, shrinking tail is a warning sign.

Question 11

How big do African Fat-Tailed Geckos get?

Accepted Answer

8–10 in (20–25 cm)

Question 12

How long do African Fat-Tailed Geckos live?

Accepted Answer

15–20 years (longer is possible)

Question 13

What are the signs African Fat-Tailed Geckos are sick or need a vet?

Accepted Answer

See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Weak or bent limbs, tremors, or a soft/rubbery jaw (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease).; A rapidly thinning tail with weight loss — fat-tails are notably prone to “stick tail” (often cryptosporidiosis): chronic runny stool and wasting despite eating warrant a vet.; Stuck shed on the toes or tail tip (can cut off circulation) or over the eyes.; A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (possible impaction).; Any tissue protruding from the vent (prolapse)..

African Fat-Tailed Gecko — care sheet

Before you buy

See a reptile vet if…

Never

Common african fat-tailed gecko questions

Adult size	8–10 in (20–25 cm)
Lifespan	15–20 years (longer is possible)
Enclosure	Adult minimum 36×18×18 in (a 3×1.5 ft floor); bigger is better. They’re terrestrial, so floor space beats height. Provide three hides — a warm hide, a cool hide, and a humid hide.
Basking / warm zone	A warm basking surface of 90–94°F (32–34°C) in the warm season, from overhead heat (with a warm hide under it) so the gut gets the heat it needs to digest — not a dangerous belly heat-rock.
Cool side	Cool side 72–77°F (22–25°C).
Night	Night can fall to ~72–77°F in the warm season. Keepers who run an optional cooler “dry season” drop the basking area to ~79°F and nights to ~63–64°F — but keep any gecko under 6 months in warm-season conditions.
UVB & lighting	Low-level UVB is recommended (they’re nocturnal — Ferguson Zone 1): UVI ~1.0–2.0 at the basking spot. They can survive on a high-D3 calcium supplement without UVB, but they do best with it.
Humidity	Higher than a leopard gecko, and ideally cycled: a rainy/warm season around 70–80% by day, and a drier season around 50% by day. Whatever the season, give a humid hide (moist substrate, kept ~70%+) on the cool end at all times so they shed cleanly — retained shed on the toes and tail tip is the classic fat-tail problem.
Substrate	A naturalistic, well-drained semi-arid mix packed ≥4″ deep for burrowing — e.g. ~40% topsoil / 40% play sand / 20% excavator clay. Use paper towel for quarantine and for geckos under ~6 months. Avoid dusty calci-sand.
Diet	Strict insectivore — no fruit, veg, or meat. A varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, dubia roaches, etc.): juveniles daily; adults every other day, or every few days for one whose tail is nicely plump. Feeders no larger than the space between the eyes; don’t leave loose insects in overnight.
Supplements	Dust insects with calcium at nearly every feeding (with D3 if UVB is minimal) and a multivitamin on a rotation. A plump tail = healthy fat stores; a thin, shrinking tail is a warning sign.