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Argentine Tegu — care sheet
Salvator merianae · Intermediate
| Adult size | 3–4.5 ft (up to ~5 ft), 8–15 lb — a genuinely large lizard |
|---|---|
| Lifespan | 15–20 years |
| Enclosure | Adult minimum around 6×3×3 ft (per the Federation of British Herpetologists’ 2022 code) — realistically a custom, room-scale build, and bigger is better. House one per enclosure. |
| Basking / warm zone | A hot basking SURFACE of 125–135°F (52–57°C) from an overhead halogen flood (they take heat from above). Warm side 90–95°F (32–35°C). |
| Cool side | Cool side 75–85°F (24–29°C), giving a full gradient across a large enclosure. |
| Night | Night 68–74°F (20–23°C) — turn all heat and light off at night for a healthy drop. |
| UVB & lighting | Strong UVB (a diurnal basker): a T5 HO bulb giving UVI 3.0–4.0 at the basking surface (Ferguson Zone 3–4), spanning about half the enclosure, on for 12–14 hours. Replace every 12 months. |
| Humidity | High: ambient 70–80%, with a humid hide/burrow at 90–100% (damp sphagnum, refreshed to prevent mould). Deep moist substrate is how tegus stay hydrated and shed cleanly. |
| Substrate | A deep, moist, burrowable substrate — 12–24″ of a soil/coco mix (at least on one side) that holds a tunnel. Tegus are strong burrowers, and it’s where they brumate. |
| Diet | An OMNIVORE whose ratio shifts with age. In the first year they need a high-protein diet (~90% protein — insects, whole prey, lean meats, egg — and ~10% vegetables) to fuel fast growth; adults move toward a more balanced mix with more vegetables and some fruit. Feed variety, and feed adults to body condition (obesity is common). |
| Supplements | Dust appropriate meals with calcium, and a multivitamin on a rotation (especially for growing tegus). |
Before you buy
- A LOT of space — a room-scale enclosure (min ~6×3×3 ft), not a tank.
- A hot basking spot, strong UVB, and the humidity (70–80%) a tegu needs.
- A varied omnivore diet — protein-heavy for a growing tegu, more veg for an adult.
- Acceptance of a months-long winter brumation, a 15–20 year commitment, and an exotics/reptile vet who sees big lizards.
See a reptile vet if…
- Weak or bent limbs, tremors, or a rubbery jaw — especially in fast-growing juveniles (metabolic bone disease).
- Obvious obesity — a heavy, jowly body with fat rolls (very common; feed to condition).
- Open-mouth breathing, wheezing, or mucus (possible respiratory infection).
- Refusing food with real weight loss OUTSIDE the brumation season, or a firm swollen belly with no droppings (impaction).
- A female straining and restless (possible egg-binding), or any tissue protruding from the vent (prolapse).
Never
- Never keep a tegu in too small a space — it needs room to roam.
- Never feed an adult a protein-only diet — it’s an omnivore and needs vegetables too.
- Never repeatedly wake or force-feed a healthy brumating tegu.
- Never house two tegus together.
- Never skip the hot basking zone or strong UVB.
Common argentine tegu questions
How hard are Argentine Tegus to keep — are they good for beginners?
Intermediate. Famously tame and rewarding — but a large, high-input lizard. Expect a room-sized enclosure, a hot basking spot, high humidity, a big varied diet, and a months-long winter brumation. Not a starter lizard, but a brilliant one for a committed keeper.
What do Argentine Tegus eat?
An OMNIVORE whose ratio shifts with age. In the first year they need a high-protein diet (~90% protein — insects, whole prey, lean meats, egg — and ~10% vegetables) to fuel fast growth; adults move toward a more balanced mix with more vegetables and some fruit. Feed variety, and feed adults to body condition (obesity is common).
How big an enclosure do Argentine Tegus need?
Adult minimum around 6×3×3 ft (per the Federation of British Herpetologists’ 2022 code) — realistically a custom, room-scale build, and bigger is better. House one per enclosure.
What basking temperature do Argentine Tegus need?
A hot basking SURFACE of 125–135°F (52–57°C) from an overhead halogen flood (they take heat from above). Warm side 90–95°F (32–35°C).
What should the cool side be for Argentine Tegus?
Cool side 75–85°F (24–29°C), giving a full gradient across a large enclosure.
What night-time temperature do Argentine Tegus need?
Night 68–74°F (20–23°C) — turn all heat and light off at night for a healthy drop.
What UVB and lighting do Argentine Tegus need?
Strong UVB (a diurnal basker): a T5 HO bulb giving UVI 3.0–4.0 at the basking surface (Ferguson Zone 3–4), spanning about half the enclosure, on for 12–14 hours. Replace every 12 months.
What humidity do Argentine Tegus need?
High: ambient 70–80%, with a humid hide/burrow at 90–100% (damp sphagnum, refreshed to prevent mould). Deep moist substrate is how tegus stay hydrated and shed cleanly.
What substrate do Argentine Tegus need?
A deep, moist, burrowable substrate — 12–24″ of a soil/coco mix (at least on one side) that holds a tunnel. Tegus are strong burrowers, and it’s where they brumate.
What supplements do Argentine Tegus need?
Dust appropriate meals with calcium, and a multivitamin on a rotation (especially for growing tegus).
How big do Argentine Tegus get?
3–4.5 ft (up to ~5 ft), 8–15 lb — a genuinely large lizard
How long do Argentine Tegus live?
15–20 years
What are the signs Argentine Tegus are sick or need a vet?
See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Weak or bent limbs, tremors, or a rubbery jaw — especially in fast-growing juveniles (metabolic bone disease).; Obvious obesity — a heavy, jowly body with fat rolls (very common; feed to condition).; Open-mouth breathing, wheezing, or mucus (possible respiratory infection).; Refusing food with real weight loss OUTSIDE the brumation season, or a firm swollen belly with no droppings (impaction).; A female straining and restless (possible egg-binding), or any tissue protruding from the vent (prolapse)..
Sources: ReptiFiles — Colombian & Argentine Tegu Care Guide · Baines et al. (2016), “How much UVB does my reptile need? The UV-Tool” · Association of Reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) · Merck Veterinary Manual — reptiles. Written and fact-checked by The Baskden Team — kind, general guidance, not a diagnosisand not a substitute for an exotics vet. baskden.com