Blood Python — care sheet

Intermediate. Do not let the "short and stocky" reputation fool you. Blood pythons are a genuinely intermediate-to-advanced snake, and most authority keepers (ReptiFiles, Mortal Coil Serpentry) do not recommend them as a first snake. They get heavy and powerful, they overheat far more easily than a ball python, and their humidity and temperature needs are less forgiving of mistakes. A well-started, captive-bred baby from a good breeder in the right setup can be calm and rewarding — but the margin for error is smaller than with a corn snake or a ball python.

Strict carnivore fed appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents. Hatchlings start on mice/small rats; adults eat large rats (very large females may take small rabbits). Prey should be roughly the girth of the snake, about 10% of its body weight, and no more than ~1.5x its widest point.

Adult minimum roughly 48" L x 24" D (a 4 x 2 ft footprint, about 1,000+ sq in of floor space); a 6 x 2 ft enclosure is better for a big female. Height can be modest (12-24") since they are terrestrial, not climbers. A front-opening, solid-walled terrarium or tub holds humidity and helps a nervous snake feel secure.

Warm end / hotspot around 86-88°F (30-31°C). This species is heat-sensitive: keep ambient warm-side temps in the 78-82°F range and treat 85°F as the ceiling for the general warm area. Use a thermostat on all heat sources and verify with a probe thermometer, not the dial.

Cool end 75-78°F (24-26°C). The gradient between warm and cool is what lets the snake self-regulate.

A mild night drop into the low-to-mid 70s°F is fine and natural; do not let it fall to 65°F (18°C) or below.

Low / optional. Blood pythons are nocturnal-to-crepuscular and there is no proven UVB requirement, so they can be kept successfully without it. Modern best practice is that a low-output UVB bulb (a low Ferguson-zone lamp giving a UVI of roughly 1-2 at basking height) is a reasonable enrichment upgrade rather than a necessity. If you skip UVB, feeding whole rodents covers vitamin D3.

60-70% ambient, with many experienced keepers targeting around 60% average as the sweet spot. Too dry causes bad sheds and respiratory trouble; chronically soggy, stale, poorly ventilated air causes scale rot and infection. Aim for a large water bowl, a humid hide, and good airflow rather than constant misting.

A deep (at least 4", ideally 4-6") layer of a moisture-holding but breathable substrate: cypress mulch is the keeper favorite; sphagnum moss, coconut husk chips, or peat blends also work. Spot-clean constantly and fully replace every few months. Avoid cedar and pine (toxic oils).

Generally none needed when feeding whole, appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents — a whole prey item supplies calcium and vitamin D3. Supplementation is not part of routine blood python care.

Around 4-6 ft (1.2-1.8 m) but extremely heavy-bodied. Males are typically 3-5 ft, females larger; adults commonly exceed 20 lb (9+ kg). The bulk, not the length, is what surprises people.

20-25+ years in good care; individuals over 30 years are documented.

See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Open-mouth breathing, wheezing, clicking, bubbling from the nose or mouth, or excess mucus — possible respiratory infection; see an exotics vet.; Retained, patchy, or stuck shed (especially over the eyes) despite correct humidity, or repeated bad sheds.; Discolored, blistered, sunken, or foul-smelling belly scales — possible scale rot from overly wet or dirty substrate.; Refusing several meals in a row with visible weight loss, a sunken body, or lethargy (beyond a normal seasonal slow-down).; Regurgitating a meal, straining, or a swollen/bloated body — stop feeding and seek veterinary advice.; Tiny moving specks on the snake or in the water bowl (mites), or any wound, burn, or sudden behavior change..