Chinese Cave Gecko — care sheet

Intermediate. Not hard to keep once set up, but the margin for error on heat is thin: they come from cool, humid limestone caves and get heat-stressed above about 82°F/28°C, which trips up keepers used to hot desert geckos. The bigger catch is ethical, not technical, most in the trade are wild-caught from a Vulnerable, CITES-listed species, so sourcing captive-bred is part of the job.

Insectivore. Feed a rotating variety of appropriately sized live insects: crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms, superworms, and occasional treats like waxworms, hornworms, or calci-worms. Juveniles daily; adults every other day (about 3-4 times a week). Gut-load feeders and offer a shallow water dish at all times.

Minimum 24 x 18 x 18 in (60 x 45 x 45 cm) of floor-and-height space for a single adult (ReptiFiles); PetMD lists a comparable ~30 x 12 x 12 in minimum. Bigger is always better, and a planted, cave-like build with height suits them since they'll use vertical cork and backgrounds. A pair or small female group needs a 40-gallon-breeder footprint or larger.

No hot basking spot. The warm end / warm hide should top out at 80-82°F (27-28°C) and never higher, this is a warm hide, not a heat lamp target.

70-77°F (21-25°C). A true cool retreat is essential; ambient room temperature is often close to ideal.

68-72°F (20-22°C); safely down to about 65°F (18°C). A natural night drop is welcomed and normal.

Low but beneficial. Use a low-output UVB such as an Arcadia ShadeDweller T5 targeting a UVI of just 1.0-2.0 at basking height (about 8-12 in / 20-31 cm away), or an equivalent low (5.0 / 2-5%) tube. As nocturnal shade-dwellers they need far less than a diurnal lizard, so provide plenty of shade and never overexpose them.

60-80% is a good working target, cycling lower by day and higher (up to ~90% in humid hides/microclimates) at night. Mist morning and evening and keep a moist hide; track it with a digital hygrometer probe placed mid-enclosure.

A moisture-holding mix, coconut fiber (coco coir) blended with organic topsoil and/or sphagnum moss, or orchid bark, at least 2-4 in (5-10 cm) deep so it burrows and holds humidity. Spot-clean daily; replace sections that get waterlogged or soiled.

Dust with calcium: daily for juveniles, every 2-3 feedings for adults. Add a reptile multivitamin once or twice a week. Because UVB is low, use a calcium-with-D3 product (or a multivitamin containing D3) rather than assuming they'll make all their own.

Around 6-8 in (15-20 cm) total length, including the tail. The genus Goniurosaurus ranges roughly 5.5-9.5 in (14-24 cm) depending on species.

10-12+ years in captivity with good husbandry; some individuals reach 15.

See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Cloudy, swollen, or discharging eyes, or eyes kept shut, see an exotics vet.; Retained shed, especially rings stuck on toes or over the eyes, which can cause loss of toes if ignored.; Lethargy, refusing food for an extended period, or noticeable weight/fat-tail loss.; Signs of overheating: gaping, frantic pacing, or hiding at the cool end and refusing to move, check temps immediately, then a vet if it doesn't recover.; Nasal discharge, open-mouth or labored breathing, or bubbling (possible respiratory infection).; Lumps, swellings, mouth sores/discoloration, tremors or twitching (possible calcium/metabolic issue), or a prolapse, all warrant a vet..