Chinese Water Dragon — care sheet

Advanced. Big, active, water-loving lizards with steep, non-negotiable needs: a tall 6-foot enclosure, a large heated pool they can fully dive into, high humidity, and correct UVB. They don't forgive poor husbandry, and their habit of nose-rubbing glass makes them genuinely harder than a "starter" reptile despite how often pet stores sell them cheap and small.

Insectivore-leaning omnivore. Juveniles are almost entirely insect-eaters; adults take roughly 80-90% insects (crickets, dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae, silkworms, the occasional worm) with the remainder as leafy greens, vegetables, and small amounts of fruit. Gut-load feeder insects for 24-72 hours before offering. Adults typically eat insects every few days with salad available more often; feed juveniles more frequently. Offer appropriately sized prey (no wider than the space between the eyes).

Adult minimum roughly 6 ft tall x 3 ft wide x 6 ft long (about 1.8 x 0.9 x 1.8 m); bigger is strongly recommended, and height matters because they climb. Build it as a paludarium: a large, heated pool that occupies about one-third to one-half of the floor space and is at least 6 in (15 cm) deep — deep enough for the dragon to fully submerge and swim, since these lizards dive to escape and can hold their breath underwater for many minutes. Keep the water warm (basking-warm surface, roughly 80s F / high-20s to low-30s C during the day) and, critically, filtered and moving — a canister or submersible filter plus weekly water changes (or sooner if soiled), because they defecate in the water and stagnant water breeds infection. Densely plant the land side and add visual barriers to stop snout-rubbing on the glass (see below). A single pet-store 75-gallon tank is a temporary juvenile home at best, not an adult enclosure.

Warm land basking spot around 90-95°F (32-35°C), measured at the surface where the dragon actually sits. Provide sturdy horizontal branches under the basking lamp so it can thermoregulate above the water.

Cool end around 77-86°F (25-30°C) per ReptiFiles, so the animal has a real thermal gradient to move through.

Night around 75-77°F (24-25°C); a modest natural drop is fine, but do not let it fall below about 65°F (18°C). Sustained cold is a leading cause of respiratory infection in this species. Use a non-light heat source (ceramic heat emitter or radiant panel on a thermostat) if the room drops.

Yes — UVB is essential. Use a high-output T5 HO linear tube: an Arcadia 12% (Desert) or Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0, spanning roughly half to two-thirds of the enclosure in a reflective fixture, aiming for a basking-zone UV Index of about 3.0-4.0 (Ferguson Zone 3). Mount it about 11-15 in (30-38 cm) above the basking branch if over mesh, or 16-20 in (40-50 cm) if inside the enclosure. Replace the bulb every 6-12 months — UV output fades before the visible light does. Pair it with a bright ~6500K daylight LED, since a UVB tube alone isn't bright enough for their needs.

High: daytime average around 60-80%. Achieve it with the large water feature plus misting 1-2x daily (or an automatic mister/fogger) and a moisture-holding substrate. Good ventilation still matters — high humidity with stagnant air invites respiratory and skin infections, so aim for humid but airy, not swampy-stale.

On the land side, a deep (about 4 in / 10 cm) moisture-holding layer such as coconut fiber, sphagnum/peat moss, or a bioactive soil mix — it holds humidity and cushions falls. Avoid loose particulate that could be swallowed with prey. Some vets prefer easy-clean paper towel or vinyl for hospital/quarantine setups; for a permanent enclosure, a naturalistic moist substrate suits the species better.

Dust feeders with a plain calcium (no D3) at most feedings, a calcium-with-D3 supplement about once weekly, and a reptile multivitamin every couple of weeks — or use an all-in-one balanced dust (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus LoD) as directed. Exact schedule depends on how strong your UVB is, so follow the product and, ideally, your exotics vet's guidance. Correct calcium/D3/UVB together prevents metabolic bone disease.

Males reach about 3 ft (0.9 m) nose-to-tail; females average smaller, around 2 ft (0.6 m). Most of that length is tail. They're slim and arboreal, not bulky.

Commonly 10-15 years with good care; some individuals reach ~20. Many die young from preventable husbandry problems, so that range assumes the setup below is actually met.

See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Open-mouth breathing, wheezing, popping/clicking sounds, mucus around the mouth or nose, or lethargy — possible respiratory infection; see an exotics vet promptly, and check that your temps aren't running cold.; Soft, bent, or rubbery jaw/limbs, tremors, twitching, difficulty climbing, or repeated failed shedding — signs consistent with metabolic bone disease / calcium-D3-UVB problems.; Persistent raw, scraped, or swollen snout/chin from rubbing the glass — needs husbandry fixes (planting, barriers, reducing stress) and vet care if the skin is broken or infected.; Not eating, sudden weight loss, sunken eyes, or no droppings for an extended period.; Straining, a bulge, or no defecation with a distended belly — possible impaction; an emergency if paired with lethargy.; Trauma, a hard fall, obvious limb deformity, seizures, or clear overheating — treat as urgent..