Baskdena warm den for reptile folk · baskden.com
Gargoyle Gecko — care sheet
Rhacodactylus auriculatus · Beginner
| Adult size | 4.5–5 in body (7–9 in with tail) |
|---|---|
| Lifespan | 15–20 years |
| Enclosure | Adult minimum 18×18×36 in, oriented vertically (they’re arboreal) and densely planted with climbing cover. Babies do better starting in a smaller enclosure so they can find food. |
| Basking / warm zone | No hot basking zone needed — a gentle low basking spot around 84°F (29°C) at most. Sustained temperatures above the mid-80s°F cause heat stress, so cool enough matters more than warm. |
| Cool side | Warm end ~77–84°F (25–29°C); cool end ~72–74°F (22–23°C). Never above 86°F (30°C) or below 65°F (18°C). |
| Night | Night can fall to room temperature (down to ~65–68°F / 18–20°C); no coloured night bulbs. |
| UVB & lighting | Low UVB is recommended (Ferguson Zone 1): UVI 1.0–2.0 at the basking branch (a low-percentage T5 bulb). They also get D3 from a complete diet, but gentle UVB is a healthy bonus. |
| Humidity | 50–70%, allowed to dry back between mistings — constant sogginess breeds mould and respiratory illness. Mist in the evening (and again in the morning if it dries out). |
| Substrate | Simple paper towel (great for beginners) or a bioactive tropical mix (topsoil/coconut fibre). Loose particulate can pose an impaction risk to very small geckos. |
| Diet | Omnivore, and more carnivorous than a crestie: a complete crested/gargoyle gecko diet (CGD) powder — e.g. Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water, PLUS insects. Hatchlings/juveniles: CGD daily + insects every other day; adults: CGD every other day + insects ~2×/week. |
| Supplements | Dust the insects with calcium; a complete CGD is otherwise balanced. |
Before you buy
- An 18×18×36 in vertical, planted enclosure.
- A way to keep it under ~86°F in summer (heat is the real risk, not cold).
- Commercial CGD powder, a mister, AND a supply of feeder insects.
- A 15–20 year commitment.
See a reptile vet if…
- A wavy, rubbery jaw or a permanently kinked tail (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease / calcium deficiency).
- Gaping, lethargy, or collapse in heat — treat overheating as an emergency: cool it down and call a vet.
- Not eating with visible weight loss over weeks.
- Stuck shed on the toes (can cost toes) or eyes.
- A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (possible impaction).
Never
- Never let the enclosure exceed the mid-80s°F — heat kills New Caledonian geckos faster than cold.
- Never rely on fruit or baby food as the diet.
- Never keep it constantly soaking wet (mould and respiratory infection).
- Never house two together — gargoyle geckos are notably cannibalistic and will eat each other.
Common gargoyle gecko questions
How hard are Gargoyle Geckos to keep — are they good for beginners?
Beginner. As easy as the crested gecko — room temperature, a complete powdered diet, no blazing lights. A touch more carnivorous, and it can regrow its tail.
What do Gargoyle Geckos eat?
Omnivore, and more carnivorous than a crestie: a complete crested/gargoyle gecko diet (CGD) powder — e.g. Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water, PLUS insects. Hatchlings/juveniles: CGD daily + insects every other day; adults: CGD every other day + insects ~2×/week.
How big an enclosure do Gargoyle Geckos need?
Adult minimum 18×18×36 in, oriented vertically (they’re arboreal) and densely planted with climbing cover. Babies do better starting in a smaller enclosure so they can find food.
What basking temperature do Gargoyle Geckos need?
No hot basking zone needed — a gentle low basking spot around 84°F (29°C) at most. Sustained temperatures above the mid-80s°F cause heat stress, so cool enough matters more than warm.
What should the cool side be for Gargoyle Geckos?
Warm end ~77–84°F (25–29°C); cool end ~72–74°F (22–23°C). Never above 86°F (30°C) or below 65°F (18°C).
What night-time temperature do Gargoyle Geckos need?
Night can fall to room temperature (down to ~65–68°F / 18–20°C); no coloured night bulbs.
What UVB and lighting do Gargoyle Geckos need?
Low UVB is recommended (Ferguson Zone 1): UVI 1.0–2.0 at the basking branch (a low-percentage T5 bulb). They also get D3 from a complete diet, but gentle UVB is a healthy bonus.
What humidity do Gargoyle Geckos need?
50–70%, allowed to dry back between mistings — constant sogginess breeds mould and respiratory illness. Mist in the evening (and again in the morning if it dries out).
What substrate do Gargoyle Geckos need?
Simple paper towel (great for beginners) or a bioactive tropical mix (topsoil/coconut fibre). Loose particulate can pose an impaction risk to very small geckos.
What supplements do Gargoyle Geckos need?
Dust the insects with calcium; a complete CGD is otherwise balanced.
How big do Gargoyle Geckos get?
4.5–5 in body (7–9 in with tail)
How long do Gargoyle Geckos live?
15–20 years
What are the signs Gargoyle Geckos are sick or need a vet?
See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: A wavy, rubbery jaw or a permanently kinked tail (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease / calcium deficiency).; Gaping, lethargy, or collapse in heat — treat overheating as an emergency: cool it down and call a vet.; Not eating with visible weight loss over weeks.; Stuck shed on the toes (can cost toes) or eyes.; A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (possible impaction)..
Sources: ReptiFiles — Gargoyle Gecko Care · Association of Reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) · Merck Veterinary Manual — reptiles. Written and fact-checked by The Baskden Team — kind, general guidance, not a diagnosisand not a substitute for an exotics vet. baskden.com