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Western Hognose — care sheet
Heterodon nasicus · Beginner
| Adult size | Males ~15–20 in; females larger, ~24–36 in |
|---|---|
| Lifespan | 15–20 years |
| Enclosure | Give at least ~1 sq ft of floor per foot of snake. Hatchlings start in ~5–10 gallons; an adult male wants a minimum ~20 gallon, and the larger females a 36×18 in (3×2 ft) footprint or bigger. A secure locking lid and deep substrate to burrow in are essential. |
| Basking / warm zone | Warm/basking surface 90–95°F (32–35°C) from an overhead heat source on a thermostat. |
| Cool side | Cool/mid-range 75–85°F (24–29°C), giving a full gradient with hides on both ends. |
| Night | Night no colder than ~60°F (16°C); ~65°F is a safer minimum. No coloured night bulbs. |
| UVB & lighting | UVB recommended (a fossorial Ferguson Zone 2 species): UVI 2.0–3.0 at the basking spot. Replace yearly. |
| Humidity | Relatively dry: 30–50% is comfortable. If your home is very dry, dampen the cool-side substrate occasionally rather than misting the whole enclosure. |
| Substrate | A deep, dry, burrowable substrate — they are avid diggers. Aspen, or a soil/sand mix, works well. Avoid pine and cedar. |
| Diet | Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (they aren’t strong constrictors, so never live). But an all-rodent diet tends to make hognoses obese; a more varied diet closer to their wild menu (mostly amphibians and reptile eggs) is healthier. Babies are famously fussy and may need prey scented (e.g. with toad/amphibian) to start. |
| Supplements | None needed on a whole-prey diet; occasional calcium if feeding a varied non-rodent diet. |
Before you buy
- A secure, locking, escape-proof enclosure with deep substrate to burrow.
- Comfort feeding frozen/thawed prey (never live), and patience with a fussy baby.
- Awareness that they’re mildly rear-fanged — harmless to most, but handle calmly.
- A 15–20 year commitment.
See a reptile vet if…
- Open-mouth breathing, wheezing, clicking, or mucus/bubbles (possible respiratory infection).
- Regurgitating meals, or refusing food with real weight loss (beyond a normal fussy phase).
- Repeated stuck sheds or retained eye caps.
- Mites (tiny moving specks) or cheesy matter in the mouth (possible mouth rot).
- Obvious obesity — fat with no muscle tone and spread scales (very common on rodent-only diets).
Never
- Never feed live rodents — use frozen/thawed.
- Never house two together.
- Never use pine or cedar substrate.
- Never handle for ~48 hours after a meal (risk of regurgitation).
- Never assume the hood/hiss/play-dead display is aggression or illness — it’s a bluff.
Common western hognose questions
How hard are Western Hognoses to keep — are they good for beginners?
Beginner. Small, hardy, and endlessly entertaining — with two honest caveats: babies can be fussy feeders, and they’re mildly rear-fanged (harmless to most people, but worth knowing).
What do Western Hognoses eat?
Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (they aren’t strong constrictors, so never live). But an all-rodent diet tends to make hognoses obese; a more varied diet closer to their wild menu (mostly amphibians and reptile eggs) is healthier. Babies are famously fussy and may need prey scented (e.g. with toad/amphibian) to start.
How big an enclosure do Western Hognoses need?
Give at least ~1 sq ft of floor per foot of snake. Hatchlings start in ~5–10 gallons; an adult male wants a minimum ~20 gallon, and the larger females a 36×18 in (3×2 ft) footprint or bigger. A secure locking lid and deep substrate to burrow in are essential.
What basking temperature do Western Hognoses need?
Warm/basking surface 90–95°F (32–35°C) from an overhead heat source on a thermostat.
What should the cool side be for Western Hognoses?
Cool/mid-range 75–85°F (24–29°C), giving a full gradient with hides on both ends.
What night-time temperature do Western Hognoses need?
Night no colder than ~60°F (16°C); ~65°F is a safer minimum. No coloured night bulbs.
What UVB and lighting do Western Hognoses need?
UVB recommended (a fossorial Ferguson Zone 2 species): UVI 2.0–3.0 at the basking spot. Replace yearly.
What humidity do Western Hognoses need?
Relatively dry: 30–50% is comfortable. If your home is very dry, dampen the cool-side substrate occasionally rather than misting the whole enclosure.
What substrate do Western Hognoses need?
A deep, dry, burrowable substrate — they are avid diggers. Aspen, or a soil/sand mix, works well. Avoid pine and cedar.
What supplements do Western Hognoses need?
None needed on a whole-prey diet; occasional calcium if feeding a varied non-rodent diet.
How big do Western Hognoses get?
Males ~15–20 in; females larger, ~24–36 in
How long do Western Hognoses live?
15–20 years
What are the signs Western Hognoses are sick or need a vet?
See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Open-mouth breathing, wheezing, clicking, or mucus/bubbles (possible respiratory infection).; Regurgitating meals, or refusing food with real weight loss (beyond a normal fussy phase).; Repeated stuck sheds or retained eye caps.; Mites (tiny moving specks) or cheesy matter in the mouth (possible mouth rot).; Obvious obesity — fat with no muscle tone and spread scales (very common on rodent-only diets)..
Sources: ReptiFiles — Western Hognose Snake Care · Association of Reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) · Merck Veterinary Manual — reptiles. Written and fact-checked by The Baskden Team — kind, general guidance, not a diagnosisand not a substitute for an exotics vet. baskden.com