Leachianus Gecko — care sheet

Intermediate. The husbandry itself is forgiving once dialed in (moderate temps, a powdered diet, no daily hotspot chasing), but leachies are a long-term, tall-enclosure commitment with a legendary bite and a temperament that ranges from mellow to genuinely feisty. Not a starter-in-your-hand gecko, but very doable for a patient keeper who does the reading first.

Omnivorous. The staple is a complete powdered crested-gecko-style diet (Pangea, Repashy, Black Panther Zoological, Zoo Med, Lugarti), offered in a dish and simply mixed with water. Supplement with appropriately sized live insects (dubia/discoid roaches, crickets, locusts, hornworms). Rough schedule: juveniles get CGD daily plus insects a few times a week; adults get CGD every other day (roughly 2x/week) plus insects about 1–2x/week. Very occasional larger prey (a pinky) can be offered to big adults but is not necessary.

Vertical space is the priority. For an adult Grande Terre leachie, a minimum of 48"L x 24"W x 48"H (120 x 60 x 120 cm); for the smaller Henkel's form, a minimum of 36"L x 18"W x 36"H (90 x 45 x 90 cm). Bigger is always better for these arboreal climbers, and taller matters more than long.

A LOW, gentle basking/warm spot around 82–88°F (28–31°C). This is not a desert hotspot, just a modest warm zone at the top of the enclosure. (ReptiFiles cites 86–88°F/30–31°C; some sources use a cooler 82–85°F/28–29°C target.)

Ambient/cool end around 72–78°F (22–26°C) through most of the enclosure. Leachies are comfortable at moderate room temperatures and can overheat easily, so a cool retreat is essential.

A natural drop to about 66–72°F (19–22°C) at night is fine and even beneficial. No supplemental night heat is usually needed if the room stays in this range.

Low but genuinely beneficial. Leachies are nocturnal/crepuscular and only take small amounts of natural UV, so use a LOW-output tube: Arcadia ShadeDweller (2.4%) for smaller/shorter enclosures, or an Arcadia Forest 6% / Zoo Med T5 HO ReptiSun 5.0 for tall enclosures, aiming for a UVI of about 2.0–3.0 at the top basking branch (verify placement with a Solarmeter). Run ~11–13 hours/day. They can survive without UVB if D3 is supplemented in the diet, but low-level UVB is the more natural, robust option.

High: aim for an average of 60–80% (measured with a digital probe hygrometer in the middle of the enclosure). It's healthy for humidity to swing lower in the day (~50%) and spike near 100% overnight after misting. Mist 1–2x daily; always allow good airflow so it dries between mistings.

A moisture-holding bioactive-style mix: organic topsoil + coconut fiber (roughly 60/40), or ready-made options like Zoo Med ReptiSoil, Eco Earth, or Exo Terra Plantation Soil, at least ~2–3 in / 5–8 cm deep, topped with leaf litter. Add cork bark, dense branches, and live or sturdy fake plants for climbing and cover. A bioactive setup with a cleanup crew works very well.

Complete powdered gecko diets are already fortified, so most calcium/vitamins come from the food. Dust live feeder insects with a plain calcium (or low-D3 calcium) powder, e.g. Arcadia CalciumPro Mg, Miner-All, or Repashy SuperCal NoD. If you rely heavily on insects or run no UVB, use a calcium-with-D3 and a multivitamin more deliberately, and add extra calcium for breeding females. Don't over-supplement on top of a fortified diet.

Largest living gecko. The big Grande Terre form (R. l. leachianus) reaches roughly 14–17 in / 36–43 cm total length; the smaller Henkel's form (R. l. henkeli) is about 9–12 in / 23–30 cm. Heavy-bodied adults can weigh several hundred grams (up to ~500 g reported in the largest individuals).

Commonly 20–30 years in good care; some sources report 30 years and beyond (occasionally cited up to ~50). A true multi-decade pet.

See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Not eating for an extended period paired with visible weight loss or a sunken/thin body and tail base.; Trouble walking or gripping, tremors, jaw softening, or a rubbery jaw/limbs, possible metabolic bone disease; see an exotics vet.; Stuck shed, especially trapped skin around toes, tail tip, or eyes that could cut off circulation.; Mouth held open, drooling, gaping, bubbling, or wheezing/clicking breathing, possible mouth or respiratory infection.; Runny, bloody, or persistently foul stool, visible parasites, prolapse, unusual lumps, or a wound/bite that isn't healing.; Any of these warrant a reptile-experienced (exotics) vet. This guide is triage, not a diagnosis..