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Leopard Gecko — care sheet
Eublepharis macularius · Beginner
| Adult size | 7–10 in (18–25 cm) |
|---|---|
| Lifespan | 10–20 years |
| Enclosure | Adult minimum 36×18×18 in (≥4.5 sq ft of floor); bigger is better. A front-opening enclosure with three hides (warm, cool, and a humid hide) suits them well. |
| Basking / warm zone | A warm basking surface of 94–97°F (34–36°C), with a warm hide around 90–92°F so the gut gets the heat it needs to digest — provided by overhead heat, not a dangerous belly heat-rock. |
| Cool side | Cool side 70–77°F (21–25°C). |
| Night | Night can fall to room temperature; no coloured night bulbs (a light-on-at-night disrupts them). |
| UVB & lighting | Low-level UVB is now recommended (the old "leos don't need UVB" line is outdated): UVI ~0.5–1.5 at the basking spot for normal morphs, and a gentler 0.5–0.7 for pale/albino/less-pigmented morphs, which are light-sensitive. Ferguson Zone 1. |
| Humidity | Ambient 30–40%, plus a dedicated humid hide at 70–80% so they can shed cleanly. |
| Substrate | A naturalistic loose mix (e.g. ~60% organic topsoil / 30% play sand / 10% excavator clay), packed ≥4″ deep, actually suits their digging — and, done right, is not the impaction bogeyman. Paper towel or tile works for quarantine. Avoid dusty calci-sand. |
| Diet | Strict insectivore — no fruit, veg, or meat. Juveniles daily; young adults every other day; adults whose tail is fatter than their neck every ~5 days. Feeder insects no larger than the space between the eyes. Don't leave loose feeders in overnight — crickets nibble sleeping geckos. |
| Supplements | Dust insects with calcium (with D3 if UVB is minimal) and a multivitamin on a rotation. A fat tail = good energy stores; a pencil-thin tail is a warning sign. |
Before you buy
- A 36×18×18 in (or larger) enclosure with three hides.
- A steady supply of varied feeder insects (not just mealworms).
- Calcium + multivitamin supplements.
- A 10–20 year commitment.
See a reptile vet if…
- Weak or bent limbs, tremors, or a soft/rubbery jaw (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease).
- A rapidly thinning ("pencil") tail with weight loss and not eating.
- Chronic runny stool and wasting despite eating (a vet should rule out cryptosporidiosis).
- Stuck shed on the toes (can cut off circulation and cost toes) or over the eyes.
- A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (possible impaction).
- Any tissue protruding from the vent (prolapse).
Never
- Never use a heat rock — they cause serious belly burns.
- Never keep pale/albino morphs under strong UVB or bright light without shade.
- Never feed a mono-diet of mealworms or waxworms.
- Never house two males together.
- Never grab or dangle by the tail — it can drop (and regrows lumpy).
Common leopard gecko questions
How hard are Leopard Geckos to keep — are they good for beginners?
Beginner. A brilliant first reptile — small, hardy, handleable, and no giant lighting rig required. Just don't believe the outdated "10-gallon, no UVB, sand" pet-store setup.
What do Leopard Geckos eat?
Strict insectivore — no fruit, veg, or meat. Juveniles daily; young adults every other day; adults whose tail is fatter than their neck every ~5 days. Feeder insects no larger than the space between the eyes. Don't leave loose feeders in overnight — crickets nibble sleeping geckos.
How big an enclosure do Leopard Geckos need?
Adult minimum 36×18×18 in (≥4.5 sq ft of floor); bigger is better. A front-opening enclosure with three hides (warm, cool, and a humid hide) suits them well.
What basking temperature do Leopard Geckos need?
A warm basking surface of 94–97°F (34–36°C), with a warm hide around 90–92°F so the gut gets the heat it needs to digest — provided by overhead heat, not a dangerous belly heat-rock.
What should the cool side be for Leopard Geckos?
Cool side 70–77°F (21–25°C).
What night-time temperature do Leopard Geckos need?
Night can fall to room temperature; no coloured night bulbs (a light-on-at-night disrupts them).
What UVB and lighting do Leopard Geckos need?
Low-level UVB is now recommended (the old "leos don't need UVB" line is outdated): UVI ~0.5–1.5 at the basking spot for normal morphs, and a gentler 0.5–0.7 for pale/albino/less-pigmented morphs, which are light-sensitive. Ferguson Zone 1.
What humidity do Leopard Geckos need?
Ambient 30–40%, plus a dedicated humid hide at 70–80% so they can shed cleanly.
What substrate do Leopard Geckos need?
A naturalistic loose mix (e.g. ~60% organic topsoil / 30% play sand / 10% excavator clay), packed ≥4″ deep, actually suits their digging — and, done right, is not the impaction bogeyman. Paper towel or tile works for quarantine. Avoid dusty calci-sand.
What supplements do Leopard Geckos need?
Dust insects with calcium (with D3 if UVB is minimal) and a multivitamin on a rotation. A fat tail = good energy stores; a pencil-thin tail is a warning sign.
How big do Leopard Geckos get?
7–10 in (18–25 cm)
How long do Leopard Geckos live?
10–20 years
What are the signs Leopard Geckos are sick or need a vet?
See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: Weak or bent limbs, tremors, or a soft/rubbery jaw (signs pointing to metabolic bone disease).; A rapidly thinning ("pencil") tail with weight loss and not eating.; Chronic runny stool and wasting despite eating (a vet should rule out cryptosporidiosis).; Stuck shed on the toes (can cut off circulation and cost toes) or over the eyes.; A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (possible impaction).; Any tissue protruding from the vent (prolapse)..
Sources: ReptiFiles — Leopard Gecko Care · Association of Reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) · Merck Veterinary Manual — reptiles. Written and fact-checked by The Baskden Team — kind, general guidance, not a diagnosisand not a substitute for an exotics vet. baskden.com