Baskdena warm den for reptile folk · baskden.com
Mourning Gecko — care sheet
Lepidodactylus lugubris · Beginner
| Adult size | Tiny — 3.5–4 in (8.5–10 cm) total length |
|---|---|
| Lifespan | 5–10 years (some keepers report up to 15) |
| Enclosure | Small and VERTICAL: 2–3 adults do well in a 12×12×18 in (30×30×45 cm) planted arboreal tank — roughly a 10-gallon on its end — adding about 5 gallons of space per extra 2 geckos. They are arboreal, so height and dense planting matter more than floor space. Seal every gap: they are minute escape artists that climb glass and hang upside-down from the mesh. |
| Basking / warm zone | A gentle warm spot of 80–85°F (26–29°C) at the top of the tank from a low-wattage bulb — NOT the "no heat, room temperature is fine" myth. Consistently above 85°F risks heat stroke. |
| Cool side | Cooler lower zone 70–75°F (21–24°C), giving a vertical gradient. Consistently at or below 72°F causes lethargy and poor appetite. |
| Night | Night 65–72°F (18–22°C) — a natural drop is fine. |
| UVB & lighting | UVB is beneficial even though they’re often kept without it — it noticeably helps healthy growth, especially in hatchlings. A low-output T5 HO bulb (Arcadia ShadeDweller 2.4%) giving UVI 1.0–3.0. Because they bask upside-down right against the top mesh, pick a bulb rated safe at that short distance. Replace yearly. |
| Humidity | Ambient 60–70%, spiking to 80–90% after misting, then allowed to dry back to 50–60% before you mist again (constant wetness grows mould). Mist 1–2× daily depending on ventilation. Live plants help hold humidity and give the colony cover. |
| Substrate | A moisture-holding bioactive-style mix (topsoil / coconut fibre) topped with leaf litter, planted with pothos and other sturdy climbers. For an arboreal micro-gecko the vertical cover matters more than the floor. |
| Diet | Easy: a complete powdered crested-gecko diet (CGD) as the base — keep a few flavours/brands on hand — plus small live insects (fruit flies, pinhead crickets, small roaches) a couple of times a week for enrichment and protein. They lap CGD from a ledge dish and hunt the insects at dusk. |
| Supplements | Lightly dust the feeder insects with calcium + D3 — this matters MORE than for most geckos, because a self-cloning colony lays eggs constantly and that drains calcium. A good CGD already carries much of the vitamin load, so don’t over-do the multivitamin. |
Before you buy
- A planted, vertical, genuinely escape-proof 12×12×18 in (or larger) tank with live plants.
- A gentle warm spot, UVB, and a misting routine — "easy" is not "no equipment".
- A plan for a growing colony — they clone themselves, so numbers rise over time.
- Calcium + D3, a good CGD, and an exotics vet who sees small lizards.
See a reptile vet if…
- A rubbery jaw, a kinked spine or tail, or wavy/soft limbs (metabolic bone disease — a real risk in constantly egg-laying females on too little calcium/UVB).
- A female straining, swollen, and off her food, or visibly egg-bound (dystocia).
- Sunken, wrinkled skin or stuck shed on the toes and tail (dehydration / bad shed).
- Gaping, lethargy, and hiding when the tank is too warm (heat stress above ~85°F).
- A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (impaction), or any tissue protruding from the vent (prolapse).
Never
- Never assume "no heat needed" — give a gentle warm gradient; they suffer below ~72°F.
- Never skip calcium + D3 (and ideally UVB) — constant egg-laying drains calcium and causes MBD.
- Never use a loose or gappy lid — they are tiny, glass-climbing escape artists.
- Never let it run consistently above 85°F — heat stroke follows.
- Never try to handle them like a bigger gecko — they’re too fragile and will drop their tail.
Common mourning gecko questions
How hard are Mourning Geckos to keep — are they good for beginners?
Beginner. One of the easiest and cheapest reptiles there is — tiny, hardy, and kept happily in a small colony. The catches: they are too small to handle, they SELF-CLONE and multiply to fill their space, and "easy" still means a gentle warm gradient, UVB, and enough calcium to support constant egg-laying. A superb first gecko for someone who wants to watch, not hold.
What do Mourning Geckos eat?
Easy: a complete powdered crested-gecko diet (CGD) as the base — keep a few flavours/brands on hand — plus small live insects (fruit flies, pinhead crickets, small roaches) a couple of times a week for enrichment and protein. They lap CGD from a ledge dish and hunt the insects at dusk.
How big an enclosure do Mourning Geckos need?
Small and VERTICAL: 2–3 adults do well in a 12×12×18 in (30×30×45 cm) planted arboreal tank — roughly a 10-gallon on its end — adding about 5 gallons of space per extra 2 geckos. They are arboreal, so height and dense planting matter more than floor space. Seal every gap: they are minute escape artists that climb glass and hang upside-down from the mesh.
What basking temperature do Mourning Geckos need?
A gentle warm spot of 80–85°F (26–29°C) at the top of the tank from a low-wattage bulb — NOT the "no heat, room temperature is fine" myth. Consistently above 85°F risks heat stroke.
What should the cool side be for Mourning Geckos?
Cooler lower zone 70–75°F (21–24°C), giving a vertical gradient. Consistently at or below 72°F causes lethargy and poor appetite.
What night-time temperature do Mourning Geckos need?
Night 65–72°F (18–22°C) — a natural drop is fine.
What UVB and lighting do Mourning Geckos need?
UVB is beneficial even though they’re often kept without it — it noticeably helps healthy growth, especially in hatchlings. A low-output T5 HO bulb (Arcadia ShadeDweller 2.4%) giving UVI 1.0–3.0. Because they bask upside-down right against the top mesh, pick a bulb rated safe at that short distance. Replace yearly.
What humidity do Mourning Geckos need?
Ambient 60–70%, spiking to 80–90% after misting, then allowed to dry back to 50–60% before you mist again (constant wetness grows mould). Mist 1–2× daily depending on ventilation. Live plants help hold humidity and give the colony cover.
What substrate do Mourning Geckos need?
A moisture-holding bioactive-style mix (topsoil / coconut fibre) topped with leaf litter, planted with pothos and other sturdy climbers. For an arboreal micro-gecko the vertical cover matters more than the floor.
What supplements do Mourning Geckos need?
Lightly dust the feeder insects with calcium + D3 — this matters MORE than for most geckos, because a self-cloning colony lays eggs constantly and that drains calcium. A good CGD already carries much of the vitamin load, so don’t over-do the multivitamin.
How big do Mourning Geckos get?
Tiny — 3.5–4 in (8.5–10 cm) total length
How long do Mourning Geckos live?
5–10 years (some keepers report up to 15)
What are the signs Mourning Geckos are sick or need a vet?
See a reptile or exotics vet if you notice: A rubbery jaw, a kinked spine or tail, or wavy/soft limbs (metabolic bone disease — a real risk in constantly egg-laying females on too little calcium/UVB).; A female straining, swollen, and off her food, or visibly egg-bound (dystocia).; Sunken, wrinkled skin or stuck shed on the toes and tail (dehydration / bad shed).; Gaping, lethargy, and hiding when the tank is too warm (heat stress above ~85°F).; A firm, swollen belly with no droppings (impaction), or any tissue protruding from the vent (prolapse)..
Sources: ReptiFiles — Mourning Gecko Care · Baines et al. (2016), “How much UVB does my reptile need? The UV-Tool” · Association of Reptilian & Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) · Merck Veterinary Manual — reptiles. Written and fact-checked by The Baskden Team — kind, general guidance, not a diagnosisand not a substitute for an exotics vet. baskden.com