Free tool · straight from our care sheets
Compare two reptiles
Torn between two species — or want to see how they really stack up? Pick any two and compare what matters for keeping them well, side by side. Every number comes from our fact-checked care sheets.
| 🦎 Leopard Gecko | 🦎 Crested Gecko | |
|---|---|---|
| Difficulty | Beginner | Beginner |
| Adult size | 7–10 in (18–25 cm) | 4.5–5.5 in body (~7–8 in with tail; many adults are tailless) |
| Lifespan | 10–20 years | 15–20 years |
| Enclosure | Adult minimum 36×18×18 in (≥4.5 sq ft of floor); bigger is better. A front-opening enclosure with three hides (warm, cool, and a humid hide) suits them well. | Adult minimum 18×18×24 in, oriented vertically (they're arboreal) and densely planted with climbing cover. Babies do better in a smaller enclosure at first so they can find food. |
| Basking / heat | A warm basking surface of 94–97°F (34–36°C), with a warm hide around 90–92°F so the gut gets the heat it needs to digest — provided by overhead heat, not a dangerous belly heat-rock. | No hot basking zone needed. A gentle warm area up to ~82–85°F (28–29°C) at most — and no higher. Sustained temperatures above the mid-80s°F cause heat stress and can be fatal. |
| UVB | Low-level UVB is now recommended (the old "leos don't need UVB" line is outdated): UVI ~0.5–1.5 at the basking spot for normal morphs, and a gentler 0.5–0.7 for pale/albino/less-pigmented morphs, which are light-sensitive. Ferguson Zone 1. | Low UVB is recommended (Ferguson Zone 1): UVI 1.0–2.0 at the basking branch (e.g. a low-percentage T5 ShadeDweller bulb). They can also get D3 from a complete diet, but UVB is a healthy bonus. |
| Humidity | Ambient 30–40%, plus a dedicated humid hide at 70–80% so they can shed cleanly. | 60–80%, allowed to dry back to ~40–50% between mistings — constant sogginess breeds mould and respiratory illness. Mist in the evening (and again in the morning if needed). |
| Diet | Strict insectivore — no fruit, veg, or meat. Juveniles daily; young adults every other day; adults whose tail is fatter than their neck every ~5 days. Feeder insects no larger than the space between the eyes. Don't leave loose feeders in overnight — crickets nibble sleeping geckos. | The easy part: a complete commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) powder — e.g. Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water, offered every 2–3 days. Insects 1–2×/week are an optional enrichment, not a requirement. No live food is needed at all. |
Quick answers
How do I choose between two reptiles?
Compare what decides whether you can keep it well, not just looks: difficulty, adult size and enclosure, basking heat, UVB, humidity, diet, and lifespan. A "beginner" reptile that needs a huge hot enclosure, strong UVB, or lives 20–30 years is still a serious commitment. This tool lays those side by side straight from our fact-checked care sheets.
Is a leopard gecko or a crested gecko easier for a beginner?
Both are beginner-friendly but suit different homes. A crested gecko needs no hot basking lamp (and must stay under ~82°F), lives in a tall planted enclosure, and can eat a complete powdered diet — great for a cooler room and easy feeding. A leopard gecko wants a warm basking surface, a horizontal desert-style enclosure, and live insects. Choose by your room temperature and how you want to feed.
Are the numbers in this tool reliable?
Yes — they come straight from our species care sheets, each fact-checked against authoritative husbandry and veterinary sources, so the comparison can never contradict the full care sheet. It is honest guidance to help you choose, not a substitute for reading the full sheet or asking a reptile vet.
Can two different reptile species live together?
Almost never. Different species have different heat, UVB and humidity needs, can transmit parasites and disease, and mixing them causes stress — and a bigger reptile may eat a smaller one. Use this tool to CHOOSE between species, not to cohabit them. Keep one species per enclosure unless a care sheet explicitly says otherwise.