Should I get a corn snake or a ball python?
Both are excellent beginner snakes, easy in different ways. A corn snake is an active, curious explorer that almost always eats reliably and is forgiving about humidity — but it's a determined escape artist that needs a very secure lid. A ball python is calmer and more handleable and lives longer (20–30+ years vs 15–20+), but is famous for going off food for weeks or months and is fussier about humidity. Pick the corn snake for reliable feeding, the ball python for a laid-back, long-lived companion.
🛒 Getting one🍽️ Feeding
Full guide: corn snake vs ball python →Compare side by side →
My ball python won't eat — should I worry?
Usually not. Ball pythons are famous for fasting — for weeks or even months — especially in winter, after a move, or around a shed, and a healthy-weight snake can skip meals for a long time without harm. Check the enclosure (correct warm side and 60–80% humidity), keep offering appropriately every week or two, and weigh it. Only real weight loss (or a red-flag sign) warrants a vet.
🍽️ Feeding🩺 Health
Full feeding guide →Body-condition checker →Ball python guide →
What humidity does a ball python need?
Around 60–80%, rising higher at night — and this is the spec people most often get wrong. Too dry and you get stuck, patchy sheds and retained eye caps. Use a thick (≥4 inch) moisture-holding substrate and a humid hide, and measure with a hygrometer rather than guessing.
💧 Humidity & shedding🏠 Setup
Full guide: humidity & shedding →Ball python guide →Setup checker →
Why is my ball python out or basking after eating?
That's healthy behaviour — after a meal a snake seeks its warm spot to raise its body temperature and digest. Coming out to the warm side, or lying stretched in the warm hide, is exactly what it should do. Just avoid handling it for about 48 hours so it doesn't regurgitate.
🤔 Behaviour🍽️ Feeding
Full guide: behaviours decoded →Is this normal? →
My ball python hides all the time / how often should I handle it?
Hiding is completely normal — ball pythons are shy, nocturnal ambush snakes, and a good enclosure has snug hides on both the warm and cool sides. Handle in short, calm, supported sessions a few times a week once it's settled, skip the ~48 hours after a meal, and let a nervous new snake have quiet time first. A snake that's out exploring at night is also normal.
🤲 Handling🤔 Behaviour
Taming & handling guide →Is this normal? →
Should I feed my ball python live or frozen mice?
Frozen-then-thawed, essentially always. A live rodent can bite and seriously injure — even kill — your snake, and it's stressful for both animals. Thaw a correctly-sized rodent (about 10–15% of the snake's body weight) to warm, offer it with tongs, and be patient with fussy eaters. Never leave a live rodent in with a snake.
🍽️ Feeding
Ball python guide →
How big an enclosure does a ball python need?
An adult needs at least a 4×2×2 ft enclosure (a 120-gallon footprint) — a snake should be able to stretch out fully, and they do climb, so give some height. The old 'keep them in a tiny tub so they feel secure' approach is out; instead give a proper-size enclosure with plenty of hides and clutter for security.
🏠 Setup
Ball python guide →
Common reptile questions that also apply
These apply to every reptile, ball python included — tap through to the full answer.
Ball python · 7 questions