Free tool · print & stick it by the tank
Reptile care scheduler
Pick your reptile and its age, and get its feeding schedule plus adaily / weekly / monthly rhythm — cleaning, water, and when to replace the UVB bulb. Print it and stick it by the enclosure.
Baskdena warm den for reptile folk · baskden.comCare schedule
Ackie Monitor — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore, primarily insectivorous: a large volume of varied gut-loaded insects (dubia, crickets, roaches), plus occasional whole prey (a pinky/fuzzy, egg) and lean meats. They’re voracious and food-motivated, so obesity from overfeeding is common — feed to body condition, not to appetite.
- Dust insects with calcium; add a multivitamin on a rotation.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, burrow & cleaning
Every day
- Check the extreme basking-surface temperature AND that a real cool retreat exists — they can heat-stroke.
- Fresh water; spot-clean waste (a big lizard produces a lot).
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; check the deep substrate is kept moist at the bottom for a humid burrow.
- Weigh it and note the trend.
Monthly
- Turn and refresh the deep burrowing substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Obesity (especially savannahs on a rodent-heavy diet) and overheating are the two big killers — feed to body condition, give a genuine cool retreat, and house just one (males fight).
African Fat-Tailed Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strict insectivore — no fruit, veg, or meat. A varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, dubia roaches, etc.): juveniles daily; adults every other day, or every few days for one whose tail is nicely plump. Feeders no larger than the space between the eyes; don’t leave loose insects in overnight.
- Dust insects with calcium at nearly every feeding (with D3 if UVB is minimal) and a multivitamin on a rotation. A plump tail = healthy fat stores; a thin, shrinking tail is a warning sign.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🌡️ Heat, humidity & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water; spot-clean the toilet corner (they usually pick one).
- Check the warm-surface temperature and that the humid hide is still damp.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; re-dampen or replace the humid hide’s moss.
- Weigh it and check the tail is a healthy, plump “carrot”.
Monthly
- Fuller substrate change and clean.
- Check the low-UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Stuck shed on the toes and eyes (needs a working humid hide) and a thinning tail are the early warnings. Never a heat rock — use belly heat from a thermostat-controlled source.
Full African Fat-Tailed Gecko care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Argentine Tegu — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- An OMNIVORE whose ratio shifts with age. In the first year they need a high-protein diet (~90% protein — insects, whole prey, lean meats, egg — and ~10% vegetables) to fuel fast growth; adults move toward a more balanced mix with more vegetables and some fruit. Feed variety, and feed adults to body condition (obesity is common).
- Dust appropriate meals with calcium, and a multivitamin on a rotation (especially for growing tegus).
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, burrow & cleaning
Every day
- Check the hot basking surface and that a cool side exists; fresh water big enough to soak in.
- Spot-clean waste from the large enclosure.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; check the deep, slightly-moist burrowing substrate.
- Weigh it and note the trend — expect big seasonal appetite swings.
Monthly
- Turn and refresh the deep substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Tegus brumate for months — a healthy winter shutdown, not illness (but confirm a stable weight first). Feed to body condition; they get obese easily.
Ball Python — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents about 10–15% of the snake's body weight (roughly every 7–14 days depending on size, adjusting to body condition). Long voluntary fasts are normal and rarely an emergency if weight holds.
- None needed — a whole-prey rodent diet is nutritionally complete.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Bearded Dragon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore whose ratio flips with age: babies eat mostly insects (as much as they’ll take, daily) plus greens; adults flip to mostly greens daily with head-sized insects only ~2×/week. Insects no larger than the space between the eyes. Fruit is a rare treat, not a staple.
- Dust insects and salad with calcium; add a multivitamin ~1–2×/week (more for babies). Don’t over-supplement — a light dusting, “like salting your food”, not a blizzard.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat lamps switch on and off on schedule.
- Fresh water; remove uneaten food and spot-clean any waste.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and refresh the water dish thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend — the earliest health signal.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the enclosure and décor.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age — replace it roughly every 12 months (mark the date).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Two quiet killers: metabolic bone disease from weak or expired UVB, and obesity from overfeeding. Get the UVB right and feed to body condition.
Blue Tongue Skink — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- OMNIVORE — the defining feature, and the key to success. Feed as much variety as possible: protein (insects, snails, eggs, lean cooked meats), vegetables/greens, and a little fruit. A rough serving is ~1–2 tablespoons (about head-sized); juveniles eat more protein and more often, adults shift toward vegetables. Variety is everything.
- Dust protein and salad with calcium, plus a multivitamin on a rotation.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water; spot-clean waste from the big floor space.
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat run on schedule.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; refresh the water thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend.
Monthly
- Deep-clean; turn and refresh the deep substrate they dig in.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Obesity is the blue-tongue’s quiet risk — feed to body condition. Match humidity to your subspecies (Indonesian humid, Northern much drier).
Full Blue Tongue Skink care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Boa Constrictor — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore fed whole prey — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (and, for variety, the occasional chick or quail). Boas are NOT stretchy like pythons: a correct meal leaves only a subtle lump, and oversized prey causes dangerous regurgitation. Feed on an infrequent, varied schedule and adjust to body condition — slow feeding is linked to boa longevity, and power-feeding causes obesity.
- A whole-prey diet is largely complete, but because feeder rodents can be nutrient-poor, lightly dust prey with a calcium/multivitamin now and then. Replace supplements every 6 months (the vitamins degrade).
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
California Kingsnake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Obligate carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (about 10–15% of the snake’s body weight), thawed to 75–100°F and offered with tongs INSIDE the enclosure (feeding inside does not make snakes aggressive — that is a myth). Frequency by age: hatchlings every 5–7 days, juveniles every 7–10, adults every 10–14. Famous for eating other snakes, so keep hands smelling clean.
- None needed — a whole-prey rodent diet is nutritionally complete.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Full California Kingsnake care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Corn Snake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed mice (about the width of the snake at its thickest). Frequency by size: hatchlings every 5–7 days, juveniles every 7–10, subadults every 10–12, adults every 14–21 (older adults ~10–14).
- None needed — whole-prey rodents are a complete diet.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Crested Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- The easy part: a complete commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) powder — e.g. Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water, offered every 2–3 days. Insects 1–2×/week are an optional enrichment, not a requirement. No live food is needed at all.
- Generally none — a complete CGD is balanced. If you feed extra insects, dust them with calcium.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Gargoyle Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore, and more carnivorous than a crestie: a complete crested/gargoyle gecko diet (CGD) powder — e.g. Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water, PLUS insects. Hatchlings/juveniles: CGD daily + insects every other day; adults: CGD every other day + insects ~2×/week.
- Dust the insects with calcium; a complete CGD is otherwise balanced.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Garter Snake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- NOT a rodent snake — a fish-and-worm eater, and VARIETY is the rule. Feed a varied menu of earthworms / nightcrawlers and whole feeder fish, plus the occasional pinky mouse. Juveniles every 3–5 days, adults every 4–7 days (worm-eaters need feeding more often than fish- or mouse-eaters). Prey no more than ~1.5× the snake’s width; offer worms and fish several at a time.
- Vary the diet to prevent a vitamin B1 (thiamine) deficiency — some fish (notably goldfish and rosy-reds) contain thiaminase, which destroys thiamine, so never feed those as a staple. Lightly dust worm/fish meals with a calcium/multivitamin to round out a diet that’s less complete than whole rodents.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh, clean water big enough to soak in — they use it a lot.
- Spot-clean waste; garters are active and messier than most snakes.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; check the water and the secure, gap-free lid.
- Weigh it and watch body condition.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and clean.
- Check the low-UVB bulb’s age if you use one (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
An all-fish diet (especially goldfish) causes thiamine/B1 deficiency — vary it with worms. Keep the water clean; they foul it fast.
Green Anole — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied menu of small feeders (crickets, dubia/discoid/red-runner nymphs, flightless fruit flies, black soldier fly larvae): juveniles eat as much as they’ll take daily; adults take 2–3 feeders, each slightly smaller than the anole’s head, every other day. Gut-load feeders 24–48 hours first.
- Dust feeders with a 50/50 calcium + multivitamin mix at every feeding — small, fast-metabolising insectivores are prone to calcium deficiency, so this plus UVB is what prevents metabolic bone disease.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist once or twice so it can drink droplets off the leaves; check the basking spot and UVB.
- Spot-clean, and keep the screen enclosure clean.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and décor; check the live plants and branches.
- A look for body condition — it’s a small, easily-stressed display species.
Monthly
- Refresh substrate and plants; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Cheap doesn’t mean low-need — anoles still need heat, UVB and droplet hydration, and are look-don’t-touch. MBD from missing UVB is the classic killer.
Hermann's Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A grazing HERBIVORE that needs a high-fibre, LOW-protein, LOW-sugar diet: mostly leafy greens, grasses, and edible “weeds” (dandelion, plantain, clover) plus flowers as treats. NOT the vegetables and fruit from the produce aisle — those are too rich. Fruit and any animal protein are, at most, rare mistakes to avoid.
- Provide a cuttlebone in the enclosure (calcium + it keeps the beak trimmed), and lightly dust food with calcium; a light multivitamin on a rotation.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Hermann's Tortoise care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Jackson's Chameleon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, black soldier fly larvae, silkworms, flying insects): juveniles daily, adults about 6–8 medium/large insects every other day. Avoid fireflies, wild-caught insects, and adult roaches (high uric acid → gout). Variety matters — a single-food staple is outdated.
- Dust lightly and on a schedule — Jackson’s are evolved for a poor-nutrition habitat, so they’re EASY to over-supplement. Plain calcium at most feedings, a little calcium + D3 occasionally (alongside UVB), and a sparing multivitamin. Too much D3 or vitamin A causes its own problems.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Hydration & cleaning
Every day
- Run the dripper or mist several times — they drink moving droplets, not from a bowl.
- Check the gentle basking spot and UVB; spot-clean droppings.
Weekly
- Wipe the glass and leaves; check the live plants and mesh cage are clean and intact.
- A calm look for body condition — sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Monthly
- Refresh plants and substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Chameleons hide stress and illness easily — they’re display animals, not handling pets. Dehydration and the wrong humidity are the big risks; match your species (Jackson’s wants cool nights and a day/night humidity swing, not constant damp).
Full Jackson's Chameleon care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Kenyan Sand Boa — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore fed whole prey — an ambush hunter that strikes from under the sand. Feed appropriately-sized prey (roughly the width of the snake’s thickest point): juveniles every 1–2 weeks, adults every 2–4 weeks. Mice are the staple, but variety (young rats, quail, chicks) makes for a healthier, less picky snake. Offer frozen/thawed, warmed to ~90°F.
- None needed — a varied whole-prey diet is nutritionally complete.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Leopard Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strict insectivore — no fruit, veg, or meat. Juveniles daily; young adults every other day; adults whose tail is fatter than their neck every ~5 days. Feeder insects no larger than the space between the eyes. Don't leave loose feeders in overnight — crickets nibble sleeping geckos.
- Dust insects with calcium (with D3 if UVB is minimal) and a multivitamin on a rotation. A fat tail = good energy stores; a pencil-thin tail is a warning sign.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🌡️ Heat, humidity & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water; spot-clean the toilet corner (they usually pick one).
- Check the warm-surface temperature and that the humid hide is still damp.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; re-dampen or replace the humid hide’s moss.
- Weigh it and check the tail is a healthy, plump “carrot”.
Monthly
- Fuller substrate change and clean.
- Check the low-UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Stuck shed on the toes and eyes (needs a working humid hide) and a thinning tail are the early warnings. Never a heat rock — use belly heat from a thermostat-controlled source.
Milk Snake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (roughly the width of the snake at its thickest). Babies start on pinky mice about 1–2×/week, easing to once a week as they grow; adults eat weekly to every other week depending on size and body condition.
- None needed — whole-prey rodents are a complete diet.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Mourning Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Easy: a complete powdered crested-gecko diet (CGD) as the base — keep a few flavours/brands on hand — plus small live insects (fruit flies, pinhead crickets, small roaches) a couple of times a week for enrichment and protein. They lap CGD from a ledge dish and hunt the insects at dusk.
- Lightly dust the feeder insects with calcium + D3 — this matters MORE than for most geckos, because a self-cloning colony lays eggs constantly and that drains calcium. A good CGD already carries much of the vitamin load, so don’t over-do the multivitamin.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Panther Chameleon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, dubia and red-runner roaches, black soldier fly larvae, hornworms, silkworms): juveniles eat as much as they can daily; adults take about 5 insects every other day. Variety is the key to good nutrition. Gut-load feeders 24–48 hours before offering.
- Chameleons are sensitive to their vitamin/mineral balance, so dust lightly and on a schedule: a plain calcium/multivitamin at most feedings, and a little calcium + D3 about twice a month (alongside UVB). Too much D3 or vitamin A causes its own problems.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Hydration & cleaning
Every day
- Run the dripper or mist several times — they drink moving droplets, not from a bowl.
- Check the gentle basking spot and UVB; spot-clean droppings.
Weekly
- Wipe the glass and leaves; check the live plants and mesh cage are clean and intact.
- A calm look for body condition — sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Monthly
- Refresh plants and substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Chameleons hide stress and illness easily — they’re display animals, not handling pets. Dehydration and the wrong humidity are the big risks; match your species (Jackson’s wants cool nights and a day/night humidity swing, not constant damp).
Full Panther Chameleon care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Red-Eared Slider — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- An OMNIVORE whose ratio flips with age. Under 1 year: roughly 50% animal protein / 50% vegetables — protein and greens daily, turtle pellets every other day. Over 1 year: roughly 25% protein / 75% vegetables — protein only 1–2×/week, leafy greens daily, pellets 2–3×/week. Pellets should be no more than ~25% of the diet. Variety is the key to good nutrition, and they eat in the water.
- Keep a cuttlebone floating in the tank at all times — a calcium source that also keeps the beak trimmed. Powdered supplements wash straight off food underwater, so minerals come from a quality pellet, varied whole foods, and that cuttlebone. Dark leafy greens matter too — too little vitamin A causes swollen eyes.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, filter & basking
Every day
- Check the water temperature and that the basking-dock heat + UVB are on.
- Remove uneaten food fast — turtles are messy and foul water quickly.
Weekly
- Do a partial dechlorinated water change to keep it clean; rinse the filter intake.
- Observe and weigh it; check the shell is firm and clean.
Monthly
- Rinse the filter media in OLD tank water — never tap water (it kills the good bacteria).
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Powerful filtration and clean, warm water prevent shell rot and respiratory infection. And never release a slider — they’re invasive.
Full Red-Eared Slider care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Red-Eyed Crocodile Skink — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied menu of appropriately-sized insects (crickets, dubia/discoid roaches, black soldier fly larvae, silkworms, earthworms, the occasional canned snail), each feeder roughly half the width of the skink’s head. Juveniles daily; adults every other day, offering as much as they’ll eat in about 5 minutes.
- Dust feeder insects with calcium at every feeding, and add a multivitamin on a rotation. Calcium + D3 matters especially if you provide little or no UVB. Always keep a bowl of clean water available too.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Humidity & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to hold high humidity; check the soaking water area is clean and full.
- Spot-clean waste, and keep it cool — never let it overheat.
Weekly
- Refresh the water area; check the dense cover and hides are intact.
- A quiet look for body condition — it’s a shy species, so observe rather than handle.
Monthly
- Refresh the moisture-holding substrate and leaf litter.
- If it’s wild-caught, keep up with any vet-advised parasite checks.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
This is a cool, humid, look-don’t-touch forest species — kept dry, hot, or over-handled it does badly. Sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Full Red-Eyed Crocodile Skink care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Russian Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A grazing HERBIVORE that needs a high-fibre, LOW-protein, LOW-sugar diet: mostly leafy greens, grasses, and edible “weeds” (dandelion, plantain, clover) plus flowers as treats. NOT the vegetables and fruit from the produce aisle — those are too high in protein and sugar. Fruit and the odd insect are rare treats at most.
- Provide a cuttlebone in the enclosure (calcium + it keeps the beak trimmed), and lightly dust food with calcium; a light multivitamin on a rotation.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Russian Tortoise care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Savannah Monitor — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- An insect-based CARNIVORE — not a rodent pet. Field studies of wild savannahs show a diet dominated by insects and other invertebrates, so base captive feeding on a large, varied supply of gut-loaded insects (dubia and other roaches, crickets, locusts, snails), with whole prey (the occasional egg, or a fuzzy) only as an occasional extra. OBESITY is the number-one killer: never free-feed rodents, dog food, or cat food. Growing animals eat a lot; adults eat far less — feed to a lean body condition, not to appetite.
- Dust insects with calcium; add a multivitamin on a rotation (about weekly).
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, burrow & cleaning
Every day
- Check the extreme basking-surface temperature AND that a real cool retreat exists — they can heat-stroke.
- Fresh water; spot-clean waste (a big lizard produces a lot).
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; check the deep substrate is kept moist at the bottom for a humid burrow.
- Weigh it and note the trend.
Monthly
- Turn and refresh the deep burrowing substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Obesity (especially savannahs on a rodent-heavy diet) and overheating are the two big killers — feed to body condition, give a genuine cool retreat, and house just one (males fight).
Full Savannah Monitor care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Sulcata Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A grazing HERBIVORE built for high-fibre, LOW-protein, LOW-sugar forage: grasses and grass hay, leafy greens, and edible weeds (dandelion, clover, hibiscus, mulberry and grape leaves, opuntia cactus). Variety is the key to good nutrition. Young sulcatas eat as much as they can daily; adults get a roughly shell-sized portion daily to prevent obesity. Offer food on a tray to avoid substrate ingestion. NEVER feed fruit, and never a high-protein diet.
- Keep a cuttlebone in the enclosure at all times — a calcium source that also keeps the beak trimmed — and lightly dust food with a multivitamin (e.g. Rep-Cal Herptivite). Provide clean drinking water in a shallow dish no deeper than its knees, changed daily (they foul it fast).
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Sulcata Tortoise care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Uromastyx — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A strict HERBIVORE: roughly 90% leafy greens and flowers, ~5% harder vegetables/treats, and ~5% dry foods (a seed/lentil mix or a commercial herbivore diet). Wild, pesticide-free “weeds” are better than grocery greens. No insects or meat — animal protein causes gout and kidney disease in uromastyx.
- Lightly dust food with calcium and a multivitamin on a rotation; strong UVB does much of the vitamin-D work.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat lamps switch on and off on schedule.
- Fresh water; remove uneaten food and spot-clean any waste.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and refresh the water dish thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend — the earliest health signal.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the enclosure and décor.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age — replace it roughly every 12 months (mark the date).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Two quiet killers: metabolic bone disease from weak or expired UVB, and obesity from overfeeding. Get the UVB right and feed to body condition.
Veiled Chameleon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, dubia, hornworms, silkworms, black soldier fly larvae): juveniles daily, adults every 1–2 days. Veiled chameleons also nibble non-toxic live plants (pothos, hibiscus), which is normal.
- Dust insects with plain calcium at most feedings, a little calcium + D3 lightly (alongside UVB), and a multivitamin about every 2 weeks. Getting the supplement schedule right matters — too much D3 or vitamin A causes its own problems.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Hydration & cleaning
Every day
- Run the dripper or mist several times — they drink moving droplets, not from a bowl.
- Check the gentle basking spot and UVB; spot-clean droppings.
Weekly
- Wipe the glass and leaves; check the live plants and mesh cage are clean and intact.
- A calm look for body condition — sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Monthly
- Refresh plants and substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Chameleons hide stress and illness easily — they’re display animals, not handling pets. Dehydration and the wrong humidity are the big risks; match your species (Jackson’s wants cool nights and a day/night humidity swing, not constant damp).
Full Veiled Chameleon care →UVB target →Is it fat or thin? →
Western Hognose — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (they aren’t strong constrictors, so never live). But an all-rodent diet tends to make hognoses obese; a more varied diet closer to their wild menu (mostly amphibians and reptile eggs) is healthier. Babies are famously fussy and may need prey scented (e.g. with toad/amphibian) to start.
- None needed on a whole-prey diet; occasional calcium if feeding a varied non-rodent diet.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
A sensible starting routine, not a rigid rule — adjust to your individual animal and its body condition. Feeding is from each species’ fact-checked care sheet; the cleaning rhythm is standard husbandry. Your pick is remembered on this device only — no account, nothing sent anywhere.
Quick answers
How often should I feed my reptile?
It depends on the species and its age — pick your reptile above for its fact-checked diet. As a rule, growing juveniles eat more often (many insectivores close to daily), while adults settle to a steadier routine (often every 2–3 days for insect-eaters, every 1–2 weeks for snakes, daily fresh greens for tortoises). The golden rule across every species: feed to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is a leading cause of illness.
What daily, weekly and monthly care does a reptile need?
Daily: fresh water, spot-cleaning, and a quick check that heat and UVB are running. Weekly: a wipe-down, a proper water refresh, and a weigh-in to track the trend. Monthly: a deeper clean and a check on the UVB bulb’s age. The exact rhythm shifts by setup type — this tool lays out your species’ version so you can print it and stick it by the enclosure.
How often should I replace a UVB bulb?
Roughly every 12 months. A UVB bulb’s output fades long before its visible light goes out, so a tube that still glows can be producing almost no useful UVB — which slowly leads to metabolic bone disease. Mark the replacement date on your calendar (this scheduler puts it on the monthly list), and a Solarmeter lets you confirm the actual UV index rather than guess.
Do I need to clean a reptile enclosure every day?
Only spot-cleaning — remove waste, uneaten food, and refresh water daily. A full substrate change and deep clean is a monthly job for most setups (a self-cleaning bioactive vivarium needs less). Daily spot-cleaning plus the weekly and monthly routine keeps the enclosure healthy without over-disturbing the animal.