Free tool · print & stick it by the tank
Reptile care scheduler
Pick your reptile and its age, and get its feeding schedule plus a daily / weekly / monthly rhythm — cleaning, water, and when to replace the UVB bulb. Print it and stick it by the enclosure.
Baskden a warm den for reptile folk · baskden.com Care schedule
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Ackie Monitor — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore, primarily insectivorous: a large volume of varied gut-loaded insects (dubia, crickets, roaches), plus occasional whole prey (a pinky/fuzzy, egg) and lean meats. They’re voracious and food-motivated, so obesity from overfeeding is common — feed to body condition, not to appetite.
- Dust insects with calcium; add a multivitamin on a rotation.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, burrow & cleaning
Every day
- Check the extreme basking-surface temperature AND that a real cool retreat exists — they can heat-stroke.
- Fresh water; spot-clean waste (a big lizard produces a lot).
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; check the deep substrate is kept moist at the bottom for a humid burrow.
- Weigh it and note the trend.
Monthly
- Turn and refresh the deep burrowing substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Obesity (especially savannahs on a rodent-heavy diet) and overheating are the two big killers — feed to body condition, give a genuine cool retreat, and house just one (males fight).
African Fat-Tailed Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strict insectivore — no fruit, veg, or meat. A varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, dubia roaches, etc.): juveniles daily; adults every other day, or every few days for one whose tail is nicely plump. Feeders no larger than the space between the eyes; don’t leave loose insects in overnight.
- Dust insects with calcium at nearly every feeding (with D3 if UVB is minimal) and a multivitamin on a rotation. A plump tail = healthy fat stores; a thin, shrinking tail is a warning sign.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🌡️ Heat, humidity & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water; spot-clean the toilet corner (they usually pick one).
- Check the warm-surface temperature and that the humid hide is still damp.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; re-dampen or replace the humid hide’s moss.
- Weigh it and check the tail is a healthy, plump “carrot”.
Monthly
- Fuller substrate change and clean.
- Check the low-UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Stuck shed on the toes and eyes (needs a working humid hide) and a thinning tail are the early warnings. Never a heat rock — use belly heat from a thermostat-controlled source.
Full African Fat-Tailed Gecko care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
African Sideneck Turtle — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore, and in the wild an opportunistic one — aquatic insects, crustaceans, snails, small fish, plus some plant matter. In captivity, feed a quality aquatic-turtle pellet as the base plus protein (earthworms, insects, occasional whole small fish) and leafy greens/aquatic plants. Young turtles (under ~1 year) run about 50% protein / 50% plants; adults shift to roughly 25% protein / 75% plants, with the protein offered only 1–2 times a week.
- Dust food with a calcium (D3-free) supplement regularly, plus a reptile multivitamin occasionally. A cuttlebone floated in the tank gives a handy free-choice calcium source and helps keep the beak worn. Proper UVB does most of the D3 heavy lifting, so don't rely on supplements to replace the bulb.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, filter & basking
Every day
- Check the water temperature and that the basking-dock heat + UVB are on.
- Remove uneaten food fast — turtles are messy and foul water quickly.
Weekly
- Do a partial dechlorinated water change to keep it clean; rinse the filter intake.
- Observe and weigh it; check the shell is firm and clean.
Monthly
- Rinse the filter media in OLD tank water — never tap water (it kills the good bacteria).
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Powerful filtration and clean, warm water prevent shell rot and respiratory infection. And never release a slider — they’re invasive.
Full African Sideneck Turtle care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Argentine Tegu — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- An OMNIVORE whose ratio shifts with age. In the first year they need a high-protein diet (~90% protein — insects, whole prey, lean meats, egg — and ~10% vegetables) to fuel fast growth; adults move toward a more balanced mix with more vegetables and some fruit. Feed variety, and feed adults to body condition (obesity is common).
- Dust appropriate meals with calcium, and a multivitamin on a rotation (especially for growing tegus).
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, burrow & cleaning
Every day
- Check the hot basking surface and that a cool side exists; fresh water big enough to soak in.
- Spot-clean waste from the large enclosure.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; check the deep, slightly-moist burrowing substrate.
- Weigh it and note the trend — expect big seasonal appetite swings.
Monthly
- Turn and refresh the deep substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Tegus brumate for months — a healthy winter shutdown, not illness (but confirm a stable weight first). Feed to body condition; they get obese easily.
Full Argentine Tegu care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Ball Python — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents about 10–15% of the snake's body weight (roughly every 7–14 days depending on size, adjusting to body condition). Long voluntary fasts are normal and rarely an emergency if weight holds.
- None needed — a whole-prey rodent diet is nutritionally complete.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Bearded Dragon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore whose ratio flips with age: babies eat mostly insects (as much as they’ll take, daily) plus greens; adults flip to mostly greens daily with head-sized insects only ~2×/week. Insects no larger than the space between the eyes. Fruit is a rare treat, not a staple.
- Dust insects and salad with calcium; add a multivitamin ~1–2×/week (more for babies). Don’t over-supplement — a light dusting, “like salting your food”, not a blizzard.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat lamps switch on and off on schedule.
- Fresh water; remove uneaten food and spot-clean any waste.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and refresh the water dish thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend — the earliest health signal.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the enclosure and décor.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age — replace it roughly every 12 months (mark the date).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Two quiet killers: metabolic bone disease from weak or expired UVB, and obesity from overfeeding. Get the UVB right and feed to body condition.
Full Bearded Dragon care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Blood Python — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strict carnivore fed appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents. Hatchlings start on mice/small rats; adults eat large rats (very large females may take small rabbits). Prey should be roughly the girth of the snake, about 10% of its body weight, and no more than ~1.5x its widest point.
- Generally none needed when feeding whole, appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents — a whole prey item supplies calcium and vitamin D3. Supplementation is not part of routine blood python care.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Blue Tongue Skink — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- OMNIVORE — the defining feature, and the key to success. Feed as much variety as possible: protein (insects, snails, eggs, lean cooked meats), vegetables/greens, and a little fruit. A rough serving is ~1–2 tablespoons (about head-sized); juveniles eat more protein and more often, adults shift toward vegetables. Variety is everything.
- Dust protein and salad with calcium, plus a multivitamin on a rotation.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water; spot-clean waste from the big floor space.
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat run on schedule.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; refresh the water thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend.
Monthly
- Deep-clean; turn and refresh the deep substrate they dig in.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Obesity is the blue-tongue’s quiet risk — feed to body condition. Match humidity to your subspecies (Indonesian humid, Northern much drier).
Full Blue Tongue Skink care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Boa Constrictor — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore fed whole prey — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (and, for variety, the occasional chick or quail). Boas are NOT stretchy like pythons: a correct meal leaves only a subtle lump, and oversized prey causes dangerous regurgitation. Feed on an infrequent, varied schedule and adjust to body condition — slow feeding is linked to boa longevity, and power-feeding causes obesity.
- A whole-prey diet is largely complete, but because feeder rodents can be nutrient-poor, lightly dust prey with a calcium/multivitamin now and then. Replace supplements every 6 months (the vitamins degrade).
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Full Boa Constrictor care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Brazilian Rainbow Boa — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents (mice graduating to rats), roughly the width of the snake's body — target about 10% of body weight per meal. Juveniles every 7–14 days; adults every 10–14 days, stretching toward every 2–4 weeks for large adults. Frozen-thawed is safer than live.
- A varied, whole-prey rodent diet is nutritionally complete, so routine dusting is not required the way it is for insectivores. Always provide a large, sturdy water bowl the snake can soak in — clean, fresh water is the single most important daily "supplement" for this species.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Full Brazilian Rainbow Boa care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Bull Snake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strictly carnivorous: appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents (mice graduating to rats), each roughly as wide as the snake's thickest point. Hatchlings/juveniles about every 5-7 days; adults about every 7-14 days. Provide a large, sturdy water bowl at all times.
- None required when feeding nutritionally complete whole prey (frozen-thawed rodents supply the vitamins and calcium a bull snake needs). Skip dusting and vitamin drops; correct prey size and feeding frequency matter far more.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Caiman Lizard — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A shellfish specialist. In the wild they crush freshwater snails, clams, crayfish and crabs with molar-like rear teeth, plus some fish, amphibians and invertebrates. In captivity feed canned/whole snails (a staple), crayfish/crawfish, shrimp, whole fish, plus superworms, dubia roaches, hornworms and earthworms, with occasional egg or small rodent and small amounts of non-citrus fruit. Prey should be no larger than the lizard's skull. Feed juveniles daily; adults about 2-3x per week.
- Lightly dust feeder items (except whole prey like rodents/fish) with a quality calcium-plus-vitamin-D3 supplement such as Repashy Calcium Plus LoD; some keepers add a multivitamin weekly and calcium a couple of times weekly. UVB does much of the D3 work, so avoid stacking heavy D3 dosing on top of strong UVB.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, heat & cleaning
Every day
- Check the water area is clean, warm and filtered — they foul it fast; skim waste and uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; mist to keep humidity up; spot-clean the land side.
Weekly
- Partial water change and rinse the filter intake; wipe down the land area.
- Weigh it and check body condition; watch for snout rubbing on the glass (a stress sign).
Monthly
- Deep-clean; rinse filter media in OLD tank water, never tap.
- Refresh planting/cover and check the UVB tube's age (~6–12 months).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
They need a big, clean, heated body of water AND a warm UVB land side. The classic problems are dirty water and stress snout-rub on bare glass — keep the water pristine and give dense visual barriers and planting.
California Kingsnake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Obligate carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (about 10–15% of the snake’s body weight), thawed to 75–100°F and offered with tongs INSIDE the enclosure (feeding inside does not make snakes aggressive — that is a myth). Frequency by age: hatchlings every 5–7 days, juveniles every 7–10, adults every 10–14. Famous for eating other snakes, so keep hands smelling clean.
- None needed — a whole-prey rodent diet is nutritionally complete.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Full California Kingsnake care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Carpet Python — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Obligate carnivore fed whole frozen-thawed rodents sized to the snake's girth (mice up graduating to appropriately sized rats). Hatchlings/juveniles every 7–10 days; adults every 10–14 days, tapering to every 2–4 weeks for large adults. Feed roughly 10% of body weight per meal — carpets stay lean and active, and overfeeding is a real welfare risk.
- If not offering UVB, lightly dust prey with a calcium + D3 supplement occasionally, plus an occasional multivitamin. With good UVB and whole-prey feeding, supplementation needs are minimal.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Chahoua Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore. Base the diet on a complete powdered gecko/crested-gecko diet (CGD) — brands like Pangea, Repashy, Black Panther Zoological, Zoo Med, or Lugarti — mixed with water, PLUS regular live insects. Chahoua want and eat noticeably more insect prey than crested or gargoyle geckos. Feeders: appropriately sized crickets, dubia/discoid/red-head roaches, and gut-loaded locusts. Rough schedule: juveniles (0-12 mo) get CGD daily with insects every other day (1-2x/week); adults (>12 mo) get CGD every 2-3 days with insects about 1-2x/week.
- Gut-load feeder insects 2-3 days before offering, then lightly dust them with a calcium/multivitamin supplement — e.g. Repashy SuperCal NoD, or a calcium powder such as Arcadia CalciumPro Mg / Miner-All. A quality CGD already carries much of the vitamin/mineral load, so keep insect dusting light rather than heavy.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Children's Python — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strict carnivore fed appropriately sized rodents. Prey should be no wider than the thickest part of the snake's body. Adults eat an adult mouse to a small rat roughly every 10-14 days; growing juveniles every 5-7 days. Use frozen-thawed prey rather than live.
- Whole prey (mice/rats) is nutritionally complete, so routine calcium/vitamin dusting isn't needed. Just feed properly sized, quality frozen-thawed rodents.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Full Children's Python care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Chinese Cave Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore. Feed a rotating variety of appropriately sized live insects: crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms, superworms, and occasional treats like waxworms, hornworms, or calci-worms. Juveniles daily; adults every other day (about 3-4 times a week). Gut-load feeders and offer a shallow water dish at all times.
- Dust with calcium: daily for juveniles, every 2-3 feedings for adults. Add a reptile multivitamin once or twice a week. Because UVB is low, use a calcium-with-D3 product (or a multivitamin containing D3) rather than assuming they'll make all their own.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🌡️ Heat, humidity & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water; spot-clean the toilet corner (they usually pick one).
- Check the warm-surface temperature and that the humid hide is still damp.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; re-dampen or replace the humid hide’s moss.
- Weigh it and check the tail is a healthy, plump “carrot”.
Monthly
- Fuller substrate change and clean.
- Check the low-UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Stuck shed on the toes and eyes (needs a working humid hide) and a thinning tail are the early warnings. Never a heat rock — use belly heat from a thermostat-controlled source.
Full Chinese Cave Gecko care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Chinese Water Dragon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore-leaning omnivore. Juveniles are almost entirely insect-eaters; adults take roughly 80-90% insects (crickets, dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae, silkworms, the occasional worm) with the remainder as leafy greens, vegetables, and small amounts of fruit. Gut-load feeder insects for 24-72 hours before offering. Adults typically eat insects every few days with salad available more often; feed juveniles more frequently. Offer appropriately sized prey (no wider than the space between the eyes).
- Dust feeders with a plain calcium (no D3) at most feedings, a calcium-with-D3 supplement about once weekly, and a reptile multivitamin every couple of weeks — or use an all-in-one balanced dust (e.g., Repashy Calcium Plus LoD) as directed. Exact schedule depends on how strong your UVB is, so follow the product and, ideally, your exotics vet's guidance. Correct calcium/D3/UVB together prevents metabolic bone disease.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, heat & cleaning
Every day
- Check the water area is clean, warm and filtered — they foul it fast; skim waste and uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; mist to keep humidity up; spot-clean the land side.
Weekly
- Partial water change and rinse the filter intake; wipe down the land area.
- Weigh it and check body condition; watch for snout rubbing on the glass (a stress sign).
Monthly
- Deep-clean; rinse filter media in OLD tank water, never tap.
- Refresh planting/cover and check the UVB tube's age (~6–12 months).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
They need a big, clean, heated body of water AND a warm UVB land side. The classic problems are dirty water and stress snout-rub on bare glass — keep the water pristine and give dense visual barriers and planting.
Full Chinese Water Dragon care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Collared Lizard — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore. The bulk of the diet is live insects - crickets, dubia and other roaches, black soldier fly larvae, the occasional hornworm - offered daily to a healthy adult, as much as they'll eagerly eat in a few minutes. In the wild they also grab spiders and even small lizards, but you don't need to feed vertebrate prey. A little leafy greens/flowers can be offered but is a minor extra, not a staple.
- Dust insects with a plain calcium (no D3) at most feedings, and use a reptile multivitamin that includes preformed vitamin A (retinol, not just beta-carotene) a couple times a week. With strong UVB in place you need little or no added D3, but a light D3 dusting weekly is a reasonable safety net. Gut-load feeder insects well. Replace supplement pots every ~6 months as potency fades.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat lamps switch on and off on schedule.
- Fresh water; remove uneaten food and spot-clean any waste.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and refresh the water dish thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend — the earliest health signal.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the enclosure and décor.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age — replace it roughly every 12 months (mark the date).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Two quiet killers: metabolic bone disease from weak or expired UVB, and obesity from overfeeding. Get the UVB right and feed to body condition.
Full Collared Lizard care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Common Chuckwalla — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Herbivore. Offer a varied daily salad of dark leafy greens, edible flowers, and desert-appropriate weeds/plants making up the large majority of the diet (roughly 85% greens/plants/flowers), with a small portion of other vegetables and occasional fruit as a treat. Chuckwallas naturally eat creosote flowers, forbs, and grasses; live insects are not needed and, if offered at all, only very rarely.
- Dust salads with a plain calcium (no D3) supplement on most meals and a reptile multivitamin about 1-2x per week (juveniles at the higher end). A veggie-based dust such as Repashy SuperVeggie works well on the salad. Proper high UVB plus dietary calcium is what prevents metabolic bone disease.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat lamps switch on and off on schedule.
- Fresh water; remove uneaten food and spot-clean any waste.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and refresh the water dish thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend — the earliest health signal.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the enclosure and décor.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age — replace it roughly every 12 months (mark the date).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Two quiet killers: metabolic bone disease from weak or expired UVB, and obesity from overfeeding. Get the UVB right and feed to body condition.
Full Common Chuckwalla care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Common Musk Turtle — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Predominantly carnivorous. Base the diet on a quality aquatic-turtle pellet (Mazuri Aquatic Turtle Diet, ReptoMin) plus varied protein: earthworms, snails, crickets, ghost/frozen shrimp, and small pieces of fish. Feed juveniles daily; feed adults every other day (or 3–4×/week) to prevent obesity. Adults will also nibble aquatic plants. Skip wild-caught snails/insects (parasite and pesticide risk).
- Offer a cuttlebone floating in the tank as a free-choice calcium source (replace every 1–2 months as it dissolves). With real UVB and a varied, pellet-based diet, heavy supplement dusting usually isn't needed; a light calcium (with D3) dusting on non-pellet foods a couple times a week is a reasonable extra for growing juveniles.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, filter & basking
Every day
- Check the water temperature and that the basking-dock heat + UVB are on.
- Remove uneaten food fast — turtles are messy and foul water quickly.
Weekly
- Do a partial dechlorinated water change to keep it clean; rinse the filter intake.
- Observe and weigh it; check the shell is firm and clean.
Monthly
- Rinse the filter media in OLD tank water — never tap water (it kills the good bacteria).
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Powerful filtration and clean, warm water prevent shell rot and respiratory infection. And never release a slider — they’re invasive.
Full Common Musk Turtle care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Corn Snake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed mice (about the width of the snake at its thickest). Frequency by size: hatchlings every 5–7 days, juveniles every 7–10, subadults every 10–12, adults every 14–21 (older adults ~10–14).
- None needed — whole-prey rodents are a complete diet.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Crested Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- The easy part: a complete commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) powder — e.g. Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water, offered every 2–3 days. Insects 1–2×/week are an optional enrichment, not a requirement. No live food is needed at all.
- Generally none — a complete CGD is balanced. If you feed extra insects, dust them with calcium.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Eastern Box Turtle — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore, split roughly 50% animal matter / 50% plant matter for adults; juveniles are more carnivorous (~70–80% protein) and shift toward plants as they mature (ReptiFiles; VCA; Merck). Protein: earthworms, crickets, grasshoppers, mealworms, hard-boiled egg, and quality reptile/turtle pellets. Greens: dandelion, collard, mustard and turnip greens, kale, bok choy, watercress, plus squash, carrot, and bell pepper. Fruit is a small treat — under ~10% of the diet (berries, melon, apple, pear, fig). Feed juveniles daily, adults every other day. Skip iceberg lettuce, celery, dog/cat food, and wild-caught insects (VCA).
- Dust food with a calcium (no-D3) supplement, and use a D3 multivitamin lightly — VCA suggests calcium roughly 2–3x/week and a multivitamin about weekly; ReptiFiles uses an alternating ~50/50 calcium/multivitamin approach. Offer a cuttlebone for free-choice calcium and beak wear. Don't over-supplement fat-soluble vitamins, especially D3, if UVB is good (VCA).
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Humidity, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh varied food (greens, protein, some fruit) and a clean, shallow soak dish; remove uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; mist/dampen the substrate to hold humidity; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it in shallow lukewarm water to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell is firm and the eyes are bright, not sunken.
Monthly
- Turn and refresh the deep, moist substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB tube's age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
A box turtle is a LAND turtle — kept too dry it dehydrates (sunken eyes, kidney strain) and gets stuck sheds; kept too wet and dirty it gets shell rot. Aim for a humid, well-ventilated woodland setup with a shallow soak, never a swim tank. Temperate ones brumate — confirm a stable weight and see a vet before any winter cool-down.
Full Eastern Box Turtle care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Eastern Mud Turtle — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore, leaning carnivorous, and a bottom-forager by nature. Base the diet on a quality aquatic-turtle pellet, rotated with protein like earthworms, snails, small feeder invertebrates, and occasional bits of fish or thawed shrimp, plus leafy greens (dandelion, collard, mustard greens) offered in the water. Feed juveniles daily; feed adults a protein meal every other day with greens available in between. Only offer what's eaten in about 15–20 minutes.
- Dust food with a calcium (without D3, since UVB provides D3) supplement a couple of times a week, and offer a cuttlebone floated in the tank for free-choice calcium. Skip vitamin-A megadoses from the pet store — a varied diet plus real UVB covers a turtle's needs, and too much supplemental vitamin A is harmful; correct any true deficiency only under a vet's dosing.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, filter & basking
Every day
- Check the water temperature and that the basking-dock heat + UVB are on.
- Remove uneaten food fast — turtles are messy and foul water quickly.
Weekly
- Do a partial dechlorinated water change to keep it clean; rinse the filter intake.
- Observe and weigh it; check the shell is firm and clean.
Monthly
- Rinse the filter media in OLD tank water — never tap water (it kills the good bacteria).
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Powerful filtration and clean, warm water prevent shell rot and respiratory infection. And never release a slider — they’re invasive.
Full Eastern Mud Turtle care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Fire Skink — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore. Offer a varied rotation of appropriately sized live insects — crickets, dubia/discoid roaches, black soldier fly larvae, isopods, the occasional mealworm/superworm — no larger than the space between the skink's eyes. Juveniles eat daily to every other day; adults eat roughly every 2–4 days, offering what they'll clean up in about 5 minutes.
- Dust feeders with a plain calcium (no D3) at most feedings; use a calcium-with-D3 and/or a reptile multivitamin lightly 1–2x weekly (or use an all-in-one like Repashy Calcium Plus). Skip a dusting occasionally so you don't over-supplement. Gut-load your insects 24–48 hrs before feeding. Proper calcium/D3 is what prevents metabolic bone disease.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Humidity & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to hold high humidity; check the soaking water area is clean and full.
- Spot-clean waste, and keep it cool — never let it overheat.
Weekly
- Refresh the water area; check the dense cover and hides are intact.
- A quiet look for body condition — it’s a shy species, so observe rather than handle.
Monthly
- Refresh the moisture-holding substrate and leaf litter.
- If it’s wild-caught, keep up with any vet-advised parasite checks.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
This is a cool, humid, look-don’t-touch forest species — kept dry, hot, or over-handled it does badly. Sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Frilled Dragon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Primarily insectivorous. Base the diet on gut-loaded, varied feeder insects: crickets, dubia and other roaches, black soldier fly larvae (calciworms), locusts, plus occasional hornworms, silkworms and (sparingly) waxworms/superworms as treats. Many adults also nibble some greens/soft fruit, and occasional vertebrate prey (e.g. a pinky) is a rare extra, not a staple. Feed hatchlings/juveniles daily; adults roughly every 2-3 days / several times a week.
- Dust feeders with a phosphorus-free calcium (plain calcium most feedings; a calcium + D3 product where UVB coverage is uncertain, less often), plus a reptile multivitamin about once a week. Gut-load insects for 24-48h before feeding. Don't over-supplement - variety plus real UVB does most of the work.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist once or twice so it can drink droplets off the leaves; check the basking spot and UVB.
- Spot-clean, and keep the screen enclosure clean.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and décor; check the live plants and branches.
- A look for body condition — it’s a small, easily-stressed display species.
Monthly
- Refresh substrate and plants; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Cheap doesn’t mean low-need — anoles still need heat, UVB and droplet hydration, and are look-don’t-touch. MBD from missing UVB is the classic killer.
Full Frilled Dragon care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Gargoyle Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore, and more carnivorous than a crestie: a complete crested/gargoyle gecko diet (CGD) powder — e.g. Pangea or Repashy — mixed with water, PLUS insects. Hatchlings/juveniles: CGD daily + insects every other day; adults: CGD every other day + insects ~2×/week.
- Dust the insects with calcium; a complete CGD is otherwise balanced.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Full Gargoyle Gecko care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Garter Snake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- NOT a rodent snake — a fish-and-worm eater, and VARIETY is the rule. Feed a varied menu of earthworms / nightcrawlers and whole feeder fish, plus the occasional pinky mouse. Juveniles every 3–5 days, adults every 4–7 days (worm-eaters need feeding more often than fish- or mouse-eaters). Prey no more than ~1.5× the snake’s width; offer worms and fish several at a time.
- Vary the diet to prevent a vitamin B1 (thiamine) deficiency — some fish (notably goldfish and rosy-reds) contain thiaminase, which destroys thiamine, so never feed those as a staple. Lightly dust worm/fish meals with a calcium/multivitamin to round out a diet that’s less complete than whole rodents.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh, clean water big enough to soak in — they use it a lot.
- Spot-clean waste; garters are active and messier than most snakes.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; check the water and the secure, gap-free lid.
- Weigh it and watch body condition.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and clean.
- Check the low-UVB bulb’s age if you use one (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
An all-fish diet (especially goldfish) causes thiamine/B1 deficiency — vary it with worms. Keep the water clean; they foul it fast.
Giant Day Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivorous leaning toward insects plus fruit/nectar. Feed a powdered complete gecko diet (CGD, e.g. Pangea or Repashy) plus gut-loaded feeder insects (crickets, dubia/discoid roaches, hornworms, silkworms, occasional grasshoppers). A common adult routine is insects 2-3x per week and CGD roughly 1x per week; juveniles eat more often. Offer insects slightly smaller than the gecko's head.
- Lightly dust feeder insects with plain calcium (no D3) at most feedings, and use a calcium-with-D3 or reptile multivitamin on a lighter schedule (roughly once or twice a week, per product directions). Prepared CGD is already fortified, so don't double up heavily. A proper UVB source plus balanced supplements is what prevents metabolic bone disease.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Full Giant Day Gecko care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Greek Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strict herbivore and grazer. Base the diet on low-calorie, high-fiber leafy weeds and greens: dandelion, clover, plantain, hawksbit, cat's ear, sow thistle, plus collard/turnip/mustard greens, kale, hibiscus leaves and flowers, and grazing grasses. Offer variety daily. Fruit is NOT appropriate for Mediterranean tortoises — their gut isn't built for sugary food, and it causes digestive upset. Avoid high-protein/animal foods and iceberg-type filler greens.
- Calcium is critical for shell and bone health. Dust food with a plain calcium (or a plant-focused supplement like Repashy SuperVeggie) on most feeds, and keep a cuttlebone available for free-choice gnawing. Keepers relying on strong UVB or real sunlight generally use little-to-no added D3; if UVB is weak or absent, a limited D3 source becomes important — get the balance right, because both deficiency and excess cause problems.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Greek Tortoise care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Green Anole — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied menu of small feeders (crickets, dubia/discoid/red-runner nymphs, flightless fruit flies, black soldier fly larvae): juveniles eat as much as they’ll take daily; adults take 2–3 feeders, each slightly smaller than the anole’s head, every other day. Gut-load feeders 24–48 hours first.
- Dust feeders with a 50/50 calcium + multivitamin mix at every feeding — small, fast-metabolising insectivores are prone to calcium deficiency, so this plus UVB is what prevents metabolic bone disease.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist once or twice so it can drink droplets off the leaves; check the basking spot and UVB.
- Spot-clean, and keep the screen enclosure clean.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and décor; check the live plants and branches.
- A look for body condition — it’s a small, easily-stressed display species.
Monthly
- Refresh substrate and plants; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Cheap doesn’t mean low-need — anoles still need heat, UVB and droplet hydration, and are look-don’t-touch. MBD from missing UVB is the classic killer.
Green Iguana — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- 100% herbivore (folivore). The whole diet is plants: roughly 60-70% dark leafy greens (collard, dandelion, mustard greens, turnip greens, kale in rotation, escarole, watercress), about 20-30% other vegetables (squash, bell pepper, green beans, snap peas, grated carrot), and only about 10% fruit as a treat (berries, mango, papaya). NEVER feed animal protein, insects, dog or cat food, or "monkey biscuits." This is critical: iguanas are strict vegetarians in the wild, and animal protein is a leading cause of fatal kidney disease and gout in captive iguanas. Offer fresh food daily and remove uneaten produce before it spoils.
- Because captive greens rarely match wild browse, dust food with a calcium supplement and use a reptile multivitamin. A common schedule for growing iguanas is plain calcium (no phosphorus) several times a week plus a multivitamin a couple times a week; adults need less. An all-in-one herbivore supplement (e.g. Repashy SuperVeggie) at meals is a convenient option. With proper UVB you generally do NOT need heavy D3 dosing, but calcium is essential to prevent metabolic bone disease. When in doubt, ask your exotics vet to tailor the schedule.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light, greens & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh leafy greens and clean water; remove yesterday's uneaten food before it spoils.
- Check the hot basking spot and that the strong UVB + heat are on schedule; spot-clean waste and refresh the soak/water area.
Weekly
- Wipe down surfaces and disinfect the water/soak area.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the climbing branches and basking shelves are secure under its weight.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the large enclosure and décor.
- Check the UVB tube's age — replace roughly every 6–12 months (mark the date).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Two big killers: metabolic bone disease from weak or expired UVB, and kidney disease from animal protein or chronic dehydration. Keep the UVB strong, the diet 100% plants, and the humidity up.
Green Tree Python — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A whole-prey carnivore and ambush feeder: appropriately sized mice and rats (with quail, chicks, or other rodents adding variety). Feed from long, soft-tipped tongs — this snake strikes at warm, moving prey and you do not want your hand in that arc. Frequency by age: hatchlings ~every 5–7 days, juveniles ~every 1–2 weeks, adults ~every 2–4 weeks. Prey should be no wider than the thickest part of the snake.
- On an all-rodent whole-prey diet, whole vertebrate prey supplies balanced calcium and vitamins, so routine dusting isn't the driver of health it is for insectivores — proper temperatures for digestion matter far more. If you're feeding a lot of non-rodent items or want a safety margin, a light dusting with a reptile calcium/multivitamin is reasonable; do not over-supplement, especially vitamin D3 if you also run UVB.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Humidity, perches & cleaning
Every day
- Check humidity and mist if needed; fresh water in a bowl.
- A quick look that the enclosure is secure and the snake is resting normally on its perch — feed from long tongs, never free-hand a tree python.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste from under the perches; check the warm and cool perch temperatures.
- Check both perches are sturdy and at the right heights, and that humidity is holding.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down; disinfect the perches.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
A look-don't-handle, ambush-feeding perch snake. Keep humidity up (stuck sheds and respiratory infection follow if it's too dry) and always feed from tongs — a defensive strike off the branch is normal behaviour, not something to punish.
Full Green Tree Python care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Hermann's Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A grazing HERBIVORE that needs a high-fibre, LOW-protein, LOW-sugar diet: mostly leafy greens, grasses, and edible “weeds” (dandelion, plantain, clover) plus flowers as treats. NOT the vegetables and fruit from the produce aisle — those are too rich. Fruit and any animal protein are, at most, rare mistakes to avoid.
- Provide a cuttlebone in the enclosure (calcium + it keeps the beak trimmed), and lightly dust food with calcium; a light multivitamin on a rotation.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Hermann's Tortoise care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Indian Star Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A high-fibre grazing herbivore: think roughly 90% grasses and weeds, ~10% leafy greens. Good staples include lawn grass and hay, dandelion, clover, plantain (Plantago), chickweed, honeysuckle, sow thistle, mulberry and grape leaves, watercress, rocket, kale, spring greens and other dark leafy greens, plus opuntia (cactus) pads. Use The Tortoise Table to check any plant. Skip regular fruit and high-protein or high-sugar foods; feed low-and-slow. Provide constant fresh water in a shallow dish and soak young tortoises regularly.
- Dust food with a phosphorus-free calcium (calcium carbonate) most feeds, and offer a cuttlebone to gnaw. A balanced reptile multivitamin (with vitamin A and D3) a couple of times a week supports animals without unfiltered sunlight; go lighter on vitamins for well-sunned adults. Don't over-supplement D3 if the tortoise has strong UVB or real sun.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Indian Star Tortoise care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Jackson's Chameleon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, black soldier fly larvae, silkworms, flying insects): juveniles daily, adults about 6–8 medium/large insects every other day. Avoid fireflies, wild-caught insects, and adult roaches (high uric acid → gout). Variety matters — a single-food staple is outdated.
- Dust lightly and on a schedule — Jackson’s are evolved for a poor-nutrition habitat, so they’re EASY to over-supplement. Plain calcium at most feedings, a little calcium + D3 occasionally (alongside UVB), and a sparing multivitamin. Too much D3 or vitamin A causes its own problems.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Hydration & cleaning
Every day
- Run the dripper or mist several times — they drink moving droplets, not from a bowl.
- Check the gentle basking spot and UVB; spot-clean droppings.
Weekly
- Wipe the glass and leaves; check the live plants and mesh cage are clean and intact.
- A calm look for body condition — sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Monthly
- Refresh plants and substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Chameleons hide stress and illness easily — they’re display animals, not handling pets. Dehydration and the wrong humidity are the big risks; match your species (Jackson’s wants cool nights and a day/night humidity swing, not constant damp).
Full Jackson's Chameleon care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Kenyan Sand Boa — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore fed whole prey — an ambush hunter that strikes from under the sand. Feed appropriately-sized prey (roughly the width of the snake’s thickest point): juveniles every 1–2 weeks, adults every 2–4 weeks. Mice are the staple, but variety (young rats, quail, chicks) makes for a healthier, less picky snake. Offer frozen/thawed, warmed to ~90°F.
- None needed — a varied whole-prey diet is nutritionally complete.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Full Kenyan Sand Boa care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Leachianus Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivorous. The staple is a complete powdered crested-gecko-style diet (Pangea, Repashy, Black Panther Zoological, Zoo Med, Lugarti), offered in a dish and simply mixed with water. Supplement with appropriately sized live insects (dubia/discoid roaches, crickets, locusts, hornworms). Rough schedule: juveniles get CGD daily plus insects a few times a week; adults get CGD every other day (roughly 2x/week) plus insects about 1–2x/week. Very occasional larger prey (a pinky) can be offered to big adults but is not necessary.
- Complete powdered gecko diets are already fortified, so most calcium/vitamins come from the food. Dust live feeder insects with a plain calcium (or low-D3 calcium) powder, e.g. Arcadia CalciumPro Mg, Miner-All, or Repashy SuperCal NoD. If you rely heavily on insects or run no UVB, use a calcium-with-D3 and a multivitamin more deliberately, and add extra calcium for breeding females. Don't over-supplement on top of a fortified diet.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Full Leachianus Gecko care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Leopard Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strict insectivore — no fruit, veg, or meat. Juveniles daily; young adults every other day; adults whose tail is fatter than their neck every ~5 days. Feeder insects no larger than the space between the eyes. Don't leave loose feeders in overnight — crickets nibble sleeping geckos.
- Dust insects with calcium (with D3 if UVB is minimal) and a multivitamin on a rotation. A fat tail = good energy stores; a pencil-thin tail is a warning sign.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🌡️ Heat, humidity & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water; spot-clean the toilet corner (they usually pick one).
- Check the warm-surface temperature and that the humid hide is still damp.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; re-dampen or replace the humid hide’s moss.
- Weigh it and check the tail is a healthy, plump “carrot”.
Monthly
- Fuller substrate change and clean.
- Check the low-UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Stuck shed on the toes and eyes (needs a working humid hide) and a thinning tail are the early warnings. Never a heat rock — use belly heat from a thermostat-controlled source.
Leopard Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A grazer. Feed roughly 90% grasses and weeds and about 10% leafy "salad" greens. Great staples: Bermuda grass, orchard grass, timothy/grass hay, dandelion (leaves, stems, flowers), plantain (Plantago), sow thistle, clover, hibiscus leaves and flowers, mallow, grape leaves, and cactus pads (Opuntia), plus greens like endive, escarole, romaine, collard/mustard/turnip greens. High-fibre, low-protein, low-sugar. Fruit is not part of the natural diet: skip it, or offer only tiny amounts (well under 5% of the diet, or none) as a rare treat. Never feed dog/cat food or other animal protein.
- Keep a cuttlebone in the enclosure at all times for free-choice calcium. Lightly dust food with a plain calcium (calcium carbonate) supplement a couple of times a week for adults and more often for growing juveniles and gravid females. With strong UVB or natural sunlight plus a varied grazing diet, added vitamin D3 is usually unnecessary; avoid over-supplementing.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Leopard Tortoise care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Marginated Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A high-fibre, low-protein grazer. Base the diet on weeds, grasses and leafy greens: dandelion (leaves and flowers), plantain (broad- and narrow-leaf), clover in moderation, sow thistle, mallow, hibiscus leaves/flowers, and prickly-pear cactus pads. Offer chopped greens daily. Keep it varied and coarse — the gut is built for fibre, not soft supermarket veg.
- Dust food with a plain calcium (no phosphorus) supplement regularly and leave a cuttlebone available for free-choice gnawing. A calcium-with-D3 or multivitamin can be used lightly (roughly once or twice a week), but proper UVB and sunlight do most of the D3 work. A grassland tortoise pellet (e.g. Mazuri, Zoo Med Grassland) can supplement — not replace — fresh forage.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Marginated Tortoise care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Milk Snake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (roughly the width of the snake at its thickest). Babies start on pinky mice about 1–2×/week, easing to once a week as they grow; adults eat weekly to every other week depending on size and body condition.
- None needed — whole-prey rodents are a complete diet.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Mourning Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Easy: a complete powdered crested-gecko diet (CGD) as the base — keep a few flavours/brands on hand — plus small live insects (fruit flies, pinhead crickets, small roaches) a couple of times a week for enrichment and protein. They lap CGD from a ledge dish and hunt the insects at dusk.
- Lightly dust the feeder insects with calcium + D3 — this matters MORE than for most geckos, because a self-cloning colony lays eggs constantly and that drains calcium. A good CGD already carries much of the vitamin load, so don’t over-do the multivitamin.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Full Mourning Gecko care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Northern Map Turtle — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Predominantly carnivorous, and mollusc-loving in particular. In the wild females crush snails, clams, and crayfish with their broad jaws while males take aquatic insects and smaller snails. In captivity, base the diet on a quality aquatic-turtle pellet (Mazuri, ReptoMin) plus whole prey — snails, earthworms, crayfish, krill, and the occasional feeder — with some leafy aquatic greens and plants offered too. Feed hatchlings daily; taper adults to protein 2-3x per week with more plant matter, to avoid overfeeding and shell/growth problems.
- Offer a cuttlebone or calcium block floating in the tank at all times — they'll gnaw it and it buffers the water. With proper UVB, extra vitamin-D3 dusting usually isn't needed; only supplement D3 if you cannot provide good UVB (which isn't recommended). Snails and other whole, shelled prey are also a natural calcium source.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, filter & basking
Every day
- Check the water temperature and that the basking-dock heat + UVB are on.
- Remove uneaten food fast — turtles are messy and foul water quickly.
Weekly
- Do a partial dechlorinated water change to keep it clean; rinse the filter intake.
- Observe and weigh it; check the shell is firm and clean.
Monthly
- Rinse the filter media in OLD tank water — never tap water (it kills the good bacteria).
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Powerful filtration and clean, warm water prevent shell rot and respiratory infection. And never release a slider — they’re invasive.
Full Northern Map Turtle care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Painted Turtle — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivores whose ratio shifts with age. Juveniles (under ~1 yr): roughly 50% animal protein / 50% plants, fed daily. Adults: shift toward ~25% protein / 75% plants, offering protein or a quality aquatic-turtle pellet only 2-3x/week with leafy greens/aquatic plants daily. Protein sources include pellets, feeder fish/worms, and insects; skip fatty meats and iceberg lettuce.
- Leave a cuttlebone floating in the water at all times for free-choice calcium and replace it every 1-2 months. With real UVB plus a varied diet and cuttlebone, most keepers don't need heavy powder supplementation; a light calcium (with D3 optional under good UVB) dusting on protein for growing juveniles is a reasonable extra.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, filter & basking
Every day
- Check the water temperature and that the basking-dock heat + UVB are on.
- Remove uneaten food fast — turtles are messy and foul water quickly.
Weekly
- Do a partial dechlorinated water change to keep it clean; rinse the filter intake.
- Observe and weigh it; check the shell is firm and clean.
Monthly
- Rinse the filter media in OLD tank water — never tap water (it kills the good bacteria).
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Powerful filtration and clean, warm water prevent shell rot and respiratory infection. And never release a slider — they’re invasive.
Full Painted Turtle care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Panther Chameleon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, dubia and red-runner roaches, black soldier fly larvae, hornworms, silkworms): juveniles eat as much as they can daily; adults take about 5 insects every other day. Variety is the key to good nutrition. Gut-load feeders 24–48 hours before offering.
- Chameleons are sensitive to their vitamin/mineral balance, so dust lightly and on a schedule: a plain calcium/multivitamin at most feedings, and a little calcium + D3 about twice a month (alongside UVB). Too much D3 or vitamin A causes its own problems.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Hydration & cleaning
Every day
- Run the dripper or mist several times — they drink moving droplets, not from a bowl.
- Check the gentle basking spot and UVB; spot-clean droppings.
Weekly
- Wipe the glass and leaves; check the live plants and mesh cage are clean and intact.
- A calm look for body condition — sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Monthly
- Refresh plants and substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Chameleons hide stress and illness easily — they’re display animals, not handling pets. Dehydration and the wrong humidity are the big risks; match your species (Jackson’s wants cool nights and a day/night humidity swing, not constant damp).
Full Panther Chameleon care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Pygmy Chameleon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strict insectivore. Small feeders sized smaller than the head — 1/8"–1/4" crickets, flightless/fruit flies, small roaches (dubia/discoid), plus baby silkworms and hornworms. Gut-load and hydrate feeders well. Adults: about 4–6 small crickets every other day; babies and juveniles eat more, more often.
- Dust feeders with a plain calcium (no D3, no phosphorus) at most feedings; add a multivitamin roughly monthly and a calcium-with-D3 lightly and occasionally (about monthly). An all-in-one like Repashy Calcium Plus LoD or Arcadia EarthPro simplifies this. Don't over-supplement D3/vitamin A.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Hydration & cleaning
Every day
- Run the dripper or mist several times — they drink moving droplets, not from a bowl.
- Check the gentle basking spot and UVB; spot-clean droppings.
Weekly
- Wipe the glass and leaves; check the live plants and mesh cage are clean and intact.
- A calm look for body condition — sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Monthly
- Refresh plants and substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Chameleons hide stress and illness easily — they’re display animals, not handling pets. Dehydration and the wrong humidity are the big risks; match your species (Jackson’s wants cool nights and a day/night humidity swing, not constant damp).
Full Pygmy Chameleon care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Rankin's Dragon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore that shifts with age. Juveniles (roughly 3–12 months) lean insect-heavy — about 60–70% gut-loaded feeder bugs, 30–40% greens, bugs offered 1–2x daily. Adults flip to plant-forward — about 20–30% insects (2–3x/week) and 70–80% leafy greens and veg daily. Staple insects: dubia roaches, crickets, black soldier fly larvae. Staple greens: collard, turnip, mustard greens, dandelion, endive. Always offer fresh water.
- Lightly dust feeder insects with calcium. Simplest modern approach: an all-in-one like Repashy Calcium Plus LoD on every insect feeding (it supplies calcium + low-dose D3 + vitamins). If using plain supplements instead, alternate plain calcium (most feedings) with a reptile multivitamin (about once weekly) — proper UVB does the heavy lifting on D3, so avoid over-dosing D3.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat lamps switch on and off on schedule.
- Fresh water; remove uneaten food and spot-clean any waste.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and refresh the water dish thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend — the earliest health signal.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the enclosure and décor.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age — replace it roughly every 12 months (mark the date).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Two quiet killers: metabolic bone disease from weak or expired UVB, and obesity from overfeeding. Get the UVB right and feed to body condition.
Full Rankin's Dragon care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Rat Snake — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strict carnivore: appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents (mice graduating to rats as the snake grows). Feed adults roughly every 7–14 days; juveniles every 5–7 days. Prey should be no wider than about 1–1.5x the thickest part of the snake's body.
- A varied whole-prey rodent diet is nutritionally complete, so routine dusting isn't usually required. If you keep UVB modest or absent, a light occasional calcium-with-D3 dust on prey is a reasonable insurance policy — ask your exotics vet what fits your setup.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Red-Eared Slider — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- An OMNIVORE whose ratio flips with age. Under 1 year: roughly 50% animal protein / 50% vegetables — protein and greens daily, turtle pellets every other day. Over 1 year: roughly 25% protein / 75% vegetables — protein only 1–2×/week, leafy greens daily, pellets 2–3×/week. Pellets should be no more than ~25% of the diet. Variety is the key to good nutrition, and they eat in the water.
- Keep a cuttlebone floating in the tank at all times — a calcium source that also keeps the beak trimmed. Powdered supplements wash straight off food underwater, so minerals come from a quality pellet, varied whole foods, and that cuttlebone. Dark leafy greens matter too — too little vitamin A causes swollen eyes.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, filter & basking
Every day
- Check the water temperature and that the basking-dock heat + UVB are on.
- Remove uneaten food fast — turtles are messy and foul water quickly.
Weekly
- Do a partial dechlorinated water change to keep it clean; rinse the filter intake.
- Observe and weigh it; check the shell is firm and clean.
Monthly
- Rinse the filter media in OLD tank water — never tap water (it kills the good bacteria).
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Powerful filtration and clean, warm water prevent shell rot and respiratory infection. And never release a slider — they’re invasive.
Full Red-Eared Slider care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Red-Eyed Crocodile Skink — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied menu of appropriately-sized insects (crickets, dubia/discoid roaches, black soldier fly larvae, silkworms, earthworms, the occasional canned snail), each feeder roughly half the width of the skink’s head. Juveniles daily; adults every other day, offering as much as they’ll eat in about 5 minutes.
- Dust feeder insects with calcium at every feeding, and add a multivitamin on a rotation. Calcium + D3 matters especially if you provide little or no UVB. Always keep a bowl of clean water available too.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Humidity & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to hold high humidity; check the soaking water area is clean and full.
- Spot-clean waste, and keep it cool — never let it overheat.
Weekly
- Refresh the water area; check the dense cover and hides are intact.
- A quiet look for body condition — it’s a shy species, so observe rather than handle.
Monthly
- Refresh the moisture-holding substrate and leaf litter.
- If it’s wild-caught, keep up with any vet-advised parasite checks.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
This is a cool, humid, look-don’t-touch forest species — kept dry, hot, or over-handled it does badly. Sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Full Red-Eyed Crocodile Skink care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Red-Footed Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Broad-leaf grazer and opportunistic omnivore — the key difference from Mediterranean tortoises. Base the diet on dark leafy greens, weeds and flowers (dandelion, plantain, clover, hibiscus, mulberry leaf, spring greens, leaf lettuces, opuntia/prickly-pear pads). Red-foots genuinely eat fruit in the wild — offer modest amounts of soft fruit (papaya, melon, guava, berries; go easy on banana) as a real part of the diet, not a rare treat. They also naturally eat mushrooms and a little animal protein. Avoid large amounts of goitrogenic/oxalate-heavy foods (kale, broccoli, spinach) and never feed dog/cat food as a staple.
- Dust food with a calcium (D3-optional if UVB is strong) supplement 2–3× weekly and a reptile multivitamin ~weekly; leave a cuttlebone available for self-regulation. Small amount of animal protein about once weekly (e.g. a couple of earthworms, or a small portion of low-fat protein) — red-foots need a bit more protein than grassland tortoises, but too much causes shell pyramiding and kidney strain.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Red-Footed Tortoise care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Reeves' Turtle — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore that shifts toward more plants with age. Base the diet on a quality aquatic-turtle pellet, rotated with protein (earthworms, crickets, mealworms, occasional cooked fish/shrimp) and leafy greens/aquatic plants (kale, dandelion, duckweed, water lettuce). Hatchlings: protein daily. 6–12 months: protein every other day. Adults: protein only ~2–3×/week, with greens/plants offered daily.
- Leave a cuttlebone or calcium block floating in the tank at all times for free-choice calcium. A calcium (with D3) dust on food a couple of times a week is a common belt-and-braces addition, but real UVB plus a varied diet does most of the work.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, filter & basking
Every day
- Check the water temperature and that the basking-dock heat + UVB are on.
- Remove uneaten food fast — turtles are messy and foul water quickly.
Weekly
- Do a partial dechlorinated water change to keep it clean; rinse the filter intake.
- Observe and weigh it; check the shell is firm and clean.
Monthly
- Rinse the filter media in OLD tank water — never tap water (it kills the good bacteria).
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Powerful filtration and clean, warm water prevent shell rot and respiratory infection. And never release a slider — they’re invasive.
Full Reeves' Turtle care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Rosy Boa — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Strictly carnivorous. Feed appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents - a prey item no wider than about 1.5x the snake's thickest point, or roughly 10% of the snake's body weight. Hatchlings take pinky/fuzzy mice; adults take adult mice or small rats. Variety (mice, rats, gerbils, quail chicks) is fine.
- Whole rodent prey is nutritionally complete, so no routine calcium/vitamin dusting is needed for a rodent-fed snake. Always provide a shallow bowl of clean fresh water.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Rubber Boa — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents — pinky to small adult mice depending on the snake's girth. Feed roughly every 1–2 weeks (juveniles more often, adults less). In the wild they specialize in nestling rodents, but captive-bred mice fully meet their needs.
- A whole-prey rodent diet is nutritionally complete, so routine dusting is not needed. A light dusting of calcium is only a consideration for animals that never get any UVB and eat a very restricted diet — for most rubber boas on whole rodents it is unnecessary.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Russian Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A grazing HERBIVORE that needs a high-fibre, LOW-protein, LOW-sugar diet: mostly leafy greens, grasses, and edible “weeds” (dandelion, plantain, clover) plus flowers as treats. NOT the vegetables and fruit from the produce aisle — those are too high in protein and sugar. Fruit and the odd insect are rare treats at most.
- Provide a cuttlebone in the enclosure (calcium + it keeps the beak trimmed), and lightly dust food with calcium; a light multivitamin on a rotation.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Russian Tortoise care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Sandfish Skink — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore. Staples: crickets, dubia/discoid/red-runner roaches, black soldier fly larvae, small locusts, mealworms, small superworms, darkling beetles. Occasional treats: small hornworms, silkworms, waxworms, butterworms. Keep prey no wider than the skink's head; offer what it eats in ~5 minutes.
- Lightly dust feeders with a plain calcium powder at nearly every feeding (skip on naturally calcium-rich prey like hornworms/isopods). Add a reptile multivitamin occasionally — err toward too little rather than too much. Extra vitamin D3 usually isn't needed if UVB is correct; a low-D3 calcium is a safe way to top up.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water; spot-clean waste from the big floor space.
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat run on schedule.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; refresh the water thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend.
Monthly
- Deep-clean; turn and refresh the deep substrate they dig in.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Obesity is the blue-tongue’s quiet risk — feed to body condition. Match humidity to your subspecies (Indonesian humid, Northern much drier).
Full Sandfish Skink care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Savannah Monitor — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- An insect-based CARNIVORE — not a rodent pet. Field studies of wild savannahs show a diet dominated by insects and other invertebrates, so base captive feeding on a large, varied supply of gut-loaded insects (dubia and other roaches, crickets, locusts, snails), with whole prey (the occasional egg, or a fuzzy) only as an occasional extra. OBESITY is the number-one killer: never free-feed rodents, dog food, or cat food. Growing animals eat a lot; adults eat far less — feed to a lean body condition, not to appetite.
- Dust insects with calcium; add a multivitamin on a rotation (about weekly).
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, burrow & cleaning
Every day
- Check the extreme basking-surface temperature AND that a real cool retreat exists — they can heat-stroke.
- Fresh water; spot-clean waste (a big lizard produces a lot).
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; check the deep substrate is kept moist at the bottom for a humid burrow.
- Weigh it and note the trend.
Monthly
- Turn and refresh the deep burrowing substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Obesity (especially savannahs on a rodent-heavy diet) and overheating are the two big killers — feed to body condition, give a genuine cool retreat, and house just one (males fight).
Full Savannah Monitor care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Schneider's Skink — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore that leans insectivore — think roughly an 80/20 insect-to-plant split. Staple feeders: dubia/discoid roaches, crickets, black soldier fly larvae, plus occasional mealworms, superworms, hornworms, and silkworms. Add a modest share of leafy greens (collard, mustard, turnip, dandelion) and small amounts of fruit/veg. Juveniles eat daily; adults eat 2–3 times a week, offering what they'll finish in about 5–10 minutes. Gut-load feeders well.
- Dust feeders with a quality calcium/vitamin supplement. A simple reliable routine is an all-in-one like Repashy Calcium Plus LoD lightly dusted on feeders, or plain calcium (with D3) on most feedings plus a reptile multivitamin about once a week. Because they get UVB, use lower-D3 products and don't over-supplement.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water; spot-clean waste from the big floor space.
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat run on schedule.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces; refresh the water thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend.
Monthly
- Deep-clean; turn and refresh the deep substrate they dig in.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Obesity is the blue-tongue’s quiet risk — feed to body condition. Match humidity to your subspecies (Indonesian humid, Northern much drier).
Full Schneider's Skink care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Sulcata Tortoise — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A grazing HERBIVORE built for high-fibre, LOW-protein, LOW-sugar forage: grasses and grass hay, leafy greens, and edible weeds (dandelion, clover, hibiscus, mulberry and grape leaves, opuntia cactus). Variety is the key to good nutrition. Young sulcatas eat as much as they can daily; adults get a roughly shell-sized portion daily to prevent obesity. Offer food on a tray to avoid substrate ingestion. NEVER feed fruit, and never a high-protein diet.
- Keep a cuttlebone in the enclosure at all times — a calcium source that also keeps the beak trimmed — and lightly dust food with a multivitamin (e.g. Rep-Cal Herptivite). Provide clean drinking water in a shallow dish no deeper than its knees, changed daily (they foul it fast).
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🥬 Feeding, soaking & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh greens and clean water; remove yesterday’s uneaten food.
- Check the basking spot and UVB are on; spot-clean waste.
Weekly
- Soak it (especially youngsters) to hydrate; wipe down the food and water dishes.
- Weigh it and note the trend; check the shell looks smooth, not pyramided.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Too-dry conditions and too much protein or pellet food cause shell pyramiding — offer fibre-rich greens, humidity and regular soaks. A tortoise is a decades-long commitment.
Full Sulcata Tortoise care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Tokay Gecko — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore. Feed a rotation of appropriately sized feeders: crickets, dubia and discoid roaches, red runner roaches, locusts/grasshoppers, hornworms, and silkworms. Prey should be no larger than the space between the gecko's eyes (roughly its head). Juveniles daily, adults every other day, offering what the gecko eats in about 5 minutes. An occasional pinky mouse or crested-gecko diet can be given roughly 2x/month as a treat, not a staple.
- Dust feeders and gut-load. A common approach is an all-in-one like Repashy Calcium Plus LoD dusted on feeders at each meal. If using plain supplements instead: calcium with D3 (more often for growing juveniles than adults, e.g. daily for juveniles vs. 2-3x/week for adults) plus a reptile multivitamin about 1-2x weekly. Gut-load insects for 2-3 days before feeding.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Misting & cleaning
Every day
- Mist to raise humidity, then let it dry back — never a constant swamp.
- Rinse and refill the water dish; wipe droppings off the glass and leaves.
Weekly
- Spot-clean the branches and décor; check ventilation is good.
- Weigh it and check body condition at the hips and tail base.
Monthly
- Refresh the substrate and clean the plants and branches.
- If you use low UVB, check the bulb’s age (~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Overheating is the real danger — keep it under the mid-80s°F — and stagnant, damp air makes them sick. The rhythm is mist, then let it dry.
Uromastyx — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- A strict HERBIVORE: roughly 90% leafy greens and flowers, ~5% harder vegetables/treats, and ~5% dry foods (a seed/lentil mix or a commercial herbivore diet). Wild, pesticide-free “weeds” are better than grocery greens. No insects or meat — animal protein causes gout and kidney disease in uromastyx.
- Lightly dust food with calcium and a multivitamin on a rotation; strong UVB does much of the vitamin-D work.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
☀️ Heat, light & cleaning
Every day
- Check the basking temperature and that the UVB + heat lamps switch on and off on schedule.
- Fresh water; remove uneaten food and spot-clean any waste.
Weekly
- Wipe surfaces and refresh the water dish thoroughly.
- Weigh it and note the trend — the earliest health signal.
Monthly
- Deep-clean the enclosure and décor.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age — replace it roughly every 12 months (mark the date).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Two quiet killers: metabolic bone disease from weak or expired UVB, and obesity from overfeeding. Get the UVB right and feed to body condition.
Veiled Chameleon — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Insectivore — a varied, gut-loaded insect menu (crickets, dubia, hornworms, silkworms, black soldier fly larvae): juveniles daily, adults every 1–2 days. Veiled chameleons also nibble non-toxic live plants (pothos, hibiscus), which is normal.
- Dust insects with plain calcium at most feedings, a little calcium + D3 lightly (alongside UVB), and a multivitamin about every 2 weeks. Getting the supplement schedule right matters — too much D3 or vitamin A causes its own problems.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Hydration & cleaning
Every day
- Run the dripper or mist several times — they drink moving droplets, not from a bowl.
- Check the gentle basking spot and UVB; spot-clean droppings.
Weekly
- Wipe the glass and leaves; check the live plants and mesh cage are clean and intact.
- A calm look for body condition — sunken eyes mean dehydration.
Monthly
- Refresh plants and substrate; deep-clean.
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Chameleons hide stress and illness easily — they’re display animals, not handling pets. Dehydration and the wrong humidity are the big risks; match your species (Jackson’s wants cool nights and a day/night humidity swing, not constant damp).
Full Veiled Chameleon care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Western Hognose — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Carnivore — appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rodents (they aren’t strong constrictors, so never live). But an all-rodent diet tends to make hognoses obese; a more varied diet closer to their wild menu (mostly amphibians and reptile eggs) is healthier. Babies are famously fussy and may need prey scented (e.g. with toad/amphibian) to start.
- None needed on a whole-prey diet; occasional calcium if feeding a varied non-rodent diet.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
🧹 Water & cleaning
Every day
- Fresh water in a bowl big enough to drink from (and, for some, to soak).
- A quick look — is the enclosure secure and the lid still locked? Snakes are escape artists.
Weekly
- Spot-clean waste and any shed; check both hides are snug and the gradient is right.
- Check the warm and cool ends with a thermometer.
Monthly
- Full substrate change and wipe-down.
- Weigh it, log the trend, and note where it is in its shed cycle.
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Don’t panic over a fasting snake or one that hides all day — both are normal. Do act on open-mouth breathing, mucus, or repeated stuck sheds.
Full Western Hognose care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
Yellow-Bellied Slider — adult care routine
🍽️ Feeding
- Omnivore with a lifelong shift: hatchlings and juveniles are mostly carnivorous (insects, worms, small fish, crustaceans), while adults become predominantly plant-eating. Base the captive diet on a quality aquatic-turtle pellet plus lots of leafy greens and aquatic plants, with protein (feeder insects, earthworms, occasional fish) a smaller share for adults. Feed juveniles daily; adults a portion every 2–3 days.
- Even with good UVB, dust food with a calcium supplement (calcium carbonate, no phosphorus) regularly, and offer a cuttlebone floated in the tank for free-choice calcium. A vitamin/D3 supplement can be used sparingly, especially indoors, but real UVB is the primary way sliders make vitamin D3, so it is not a substitute for a good bulb.
- Growing juveniles eat more often than adults — feed young animals more frequently while they grow, and don’t skimp on calcium and UVB (this is when the skeleton is built).
- Feed an adult to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is one of the most common causes of illness in captive reptiles.
💧 Water, filter & basking
Every day
- Check the water temperature and that the basking-dock heat + UVB are on.
- Remove uneaten food fast — turtles are messy and foul water quickly.
Weekly
- Do a partial dechlorinated water change to keep it clean; rinse the filter intake.
- Observe and weigh it; check the shell is firm and clean.
Monthly
- Rinse the filter media in OLD tank water — never tap water (it kills the good bacteria).
- Check the UVB bulb’s age (replace ~yearly).
⚠️ The one thing to watch
Powerful filtration and clean, warm water prevent shell rot and respiratory infection. And never release a slider — they’re invasive.
Full Yellow-Bellied Slider care → UVB target → Is it fat or thin? →
A sensible starting routine, not a rigid rule — adjust to your individual animal and its body condition. Feeding is from each species’ fact-checked care sheet; the cleaning rhythm is standard husbandry. Your pick is remembered on this device only — no account, nothing sent anywhere.
Quick answers
How often should I feed my reptile?
It depends on the species and its age — pick your reptile above for its fact-checked diet. As a rule, growing juveniles eat more often (many insectivores close to daily), while adults settle to a steadier routine (often every 2–3 days for insect-eaters, every 1–2 weeks for snakes, daily fresh greens for tortoises). The golden rule across every species: feed to body condition, not to begging — overfeeding is a leading cause of illness.
What daily, weekly and monthly care does a reptile need?
Daily: fresh water, spot-cleaning, and a quick check that heat and UVB are running. Weekly: a wipe-down, a proper water refresh, and a weigh-in to track the trend. Monthly: a deeper clean and a check on the UVB bulb’s age. The exact rhythm shifts by setup type — this tool lays out your species’ version so you can print it and stick it by the enclosure.
How often should I replace a UVB bulb?
Roughly every 12 months. A UVB bulb’s output fades long before its visible light goes out, so a tube that still glows can be producing almost no useful UVB — which slowly leads to metabolic bone disease. Mark the replacement date on your calendar (this scheduler puts it on the monthly list), and a Solarmeter lets you confirm the actual UV index rather than guess.
Do I need to clean a reptile enclosure every day?
Only spot-cleaning — remove waste, uneaten food, and refresh water daily. A full substrate change and deep clean is a monthly job for most setups (a self-cleaning bioactive vivarium needs less). Daily spot-cleaning plus the weekly and monthly routine keeps the enclosure healthy without over-disturbing the animal.